Updated DeRosa
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
This is my steel DeRosa with Columbus SLX tubing. I bought this frame in 1992 and built it up with Campy Super Record from an '80's Batavus Pro. I've ridden this bike for the past 30 years, and "grudgingly" updated to index shifting about 5 years ago by adding Ergo-8 levers and a Chorus rear derailleur. I love this frame and plan to keep riding this bike, and figured that after 30 years it deserved it's first new groupset. I'm thinking of upgrading to a 12-speed Campy Super Record groupset and Bora wheels.
I started riding in the mid '70's with toe clips and straps, upgraded to clipless pedals in the '80's, and figured it was time to finally do index shifting right. I am way behind the times with bike tech, so look forward to learning a lot from this forum.
Ian
I started riding in the mid '70's with toe clips and straps, upgraded to clipless pedals in the '80's, and figured it was time to finally do index shifting right. I am way behind the times with bike tech, so look forward to learning a lot from this forum.
Ian

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I respectfully disagree with the above. If you are still regularly riding this bike (as opposed to having it as wall art or the occassional "conversation piece" ride) I would upgrade to modern components. IMHO, it will only make the bike lighter and ride better and likely get you better gearing as well. One thing to keep in mind regarding the wheels if you do any kind of riding in the rain, I find carbon braking surfaces to be somewhat scary in the wet, even with the "special" carbon compound pads.
Last edited by CyclingGiraffe on Thu May 11, 2023 12:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
I will “split the difference” on the advice. Mine is a Pinarello Gavia TSX with Campy Chorus Ergo 8 and it shifts better, runs quieter than my CF Shimano 10s bicycle.
I think you’re at the sweet spot right now for that bicycle, especially if you’re running sewups.
I think you’re at the sweet spot right now for that bicycle, especially if you’re running sewups.
Thanks for the comments. This frame isn't for a period-correct restoration, it's to be ridden. I've had it for so long now that it is like an old friend. The frame is in great shape but has been repainted, as the above comment hinted at the earlier Italian frames had pretty poor paint jobs. I also have Ciocc tandem from the '70's, and it had to be similarly repainted. Fortunately, Ciocc and DeRosa made their factory decals available.
The updates are for me and my weekend rides. I figured at my age if I didn't upgrade to a new groupset now, I might never get to experience the new tech, especially carbon wheels. I don't run sewups anymore; I used them when I was racing in the '70's but repairing flats was a pain. I switched to 23mm high pressure clinchers in the '80's, and am now exploring 25mm and 28mm lower pressure clinchers and loving them. Although after so many years I do find it difficult to not run the pump up to 110psi! Old habits die hard.
The updates are for me and my weekend rides. I figured at my age if I didn't upgrade to a new groupset now, I might never get to experience the new tech, especially carbon wheels. I don't run sewups anymore; I used them when I was racing in the '70's but repairing flats was a pain. I switched to 23mm high pressure clinchers in the '80's, and am now exploring 25mm and 28mm lower pressure clinchers and loving them. Although after so many years I do find it difficult to not run the pump up to 110psi! Old habits die hard.
Personally I'd build that bike with something like 9 speed Campagnolo and some nice shiny aluminium or grey anodized rims as that will look roughly correct and ride almost as fast as new stuff. If you put a carbon crank and ahead stem and deep carbon rims on it for instance the proportions and black/silver color balance look horrible. This forum has examples of Colnago steel frames being built with latest Record and 50mm deep rims and the results are not nice to look at.
If you want to try latest tech, buy something like a Crux or Tarmac Expert. This will cost less than buying new top end parts for your DeRosa frame and work better as a package. Or a Cube with 105 for 98% of the performance at 50% of the price. Or go all-in and spend the college fund on the latest Pinarello.
If you want to try latest tech, buy something like a Crux or Tarmac Expert. This will cost less than buying new top end parts for your DeRosa frame and work better as a package. Or a Cube with 105 for 98% of the performance at 50% of the price. Or go all-in and spend the college fund on the latest Pinarello.
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Love the bike, I think it would go great with a current 12 speed groupset and current wheels. Go for it and enjoy!
I've used a Cinelli 64 handlebar in the past, but understand the curves may not play nice with a modern brake lever. What aspect of the old-style bar is incompatible with the newer brake levers?
I'd like to keep a Cinelli 1/A stem, and am looking at 26mm-compatible bars. I have a compact handlebar on my commuter bike and like it, so am thinking of switching to a Deda Piega on the DeRosa. I am assuming that this bar will playl nice with new brake levers?
I'd like to keep a Cinelli 1/A stem, and am looking at 26mm-compatible bars. I have a compact handlebar on my commuter bike and like it, so am thinking of switching to a Deda Piega on the DeRosa. I am assuming that this bar will playl nice with new brake levers?
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I don't know if it is so much that the "retro" curves won't play nice with a modern brake lever, rather than you won't get that flat transition from the tops to the hoods that the modern bar/lever combo gives you. The "classic" drop bars (and I believe the Cinelli 64 falls in this category) often start "dropping" right out of the first bend from the tops on the "ramp" to the hoods. More modern ergo-styled bars have ramps that stay flat for a centimeter or two, before dropping, which when combined with modern levers creates a flat transition to the hoods. However, classic drop bars usually did not have that flat transition from the tops to the hoods. It might look a little odd to modern sensibilities, but I would guess that most combinations will work fine.idickers wrote: ↑Thu May 25, 2023 2:04 pmI've used a Cinelli 64 handlebar in the past, but understand the curves may not play nice with a modern brake lever. What aspect of the old-style bar is incompatible with the newer brake levers?
I'd like to keep a Cinelli 1/A stem, and am looking at 26mm-compatible bars. I have a compact handlebar on my commuter bike and like it, so am thinking of switching to a Deda Piega on the DeRosa. I am assuming that this bar will playl nice with new brake levers?
Otherwise, try to find a 26.0 bar that has "flat ramps" and it should be ok.
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A Cinelli 66 would suit fine but a bigger drop may not suit, I think with 64's your levers should fit with a bit of lever rotation inward similar in appearance to if you were using 65's (Criterium bar appearance). I went with Nitto B105AA-SSB bars and mine look inbetween a 64 and 65.idickers wrote: ↑Thu May 25, 2023 2:04 pmI've used a Cinelli 64 handlebar in the past, but understand the curves may not play nice with a modern brake lever. What aspect of the old-style bar is incompatible with the newer brake levers?
I'd like to keep a Cinelli 1/A stem, and am looking at 26mm-compatible bars. I have a compact handlebar on my commuter bike and like it, so am thinking of switching to a Deda Piega on the DeRosa. I am assuming that this bar will playl nice with new brake levers?
Otherwise just go with Deda Speciale or something else depending if you want oversized clamping area.

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