SRAM Eagle AXS Refresh?
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I'm especially curious if the new cassette can be used with previous gen 12s shifter and derailleur.
It looks to me like a lot of the improved shifting will be from the new cassette and chain?
It looks to me like a lot of the improved shifting will be from the new cassette and chain?
They said the cog spacing is different, so no. Or at least it wouldn't work properly.mailmanmtb wrote: ↑Mon Apr 10, 2023 7:50 pmI'm especially curious if the new cassette can be used with previous gen 12s shifter and derailleur.
It looks to me like a lot of the improved shifting will be from the new cassette and chain?
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Cassette is spaced outward by 2.5mm. That part isn't so big deal. Even if it hit the limit range of limit screw, you can just shim out the derailleur on the RD hanger by 2.5mm.
The main concern is spacing between each cog. If it's significantly different. That part could totally break the compatibility.
The main concern is spacing between each cog. If it's significantly different. That part could totally break the compatibility.
I think it's a bit hard, not impossible, but the ID of the this new derailleur is larger than the non-UDH, unless you drill a larger hole i don't see how it would fit, without compromising rigidity - the adapter would have to be 100% spot on, as even the slightest angle will compromise shifting accuracy.
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I know this is a data point of one but I was out riding last week and in California everything is massively overgrown, on a fast downhill a huge chunk of Mustard plant (it's everywhere) got lodged into my rear derailluer and before I could stop it sheared the UDH hanger off my new Stumpjumper. This leaves me very wary of going to a UDH derailluer as I fear the results would be a derailluer and possibly the frame, as it was nothing else was broken. As an aside it's nice to just buy a SRAM UD Hanger from any retail location as opposed to each frame manufacturer. Never thought I'd be happy to break a derailluer hanger, but man that could have been expensive.
Well… I’ve got 8 hours ride time on the new transmission and I just can’t get the micro adjust trim to work correctly. I’m getting really bad shifting going from the 32 to 38 cog. It seems like the timing is off and the chain gets out of sync with the wide/narrow cassette teeth. If I keep pedaling it will eventually skip forward and fall in the right slot. But this is a bit unnerving while riding. I have to adjust the trim much more inboard than I would like and it is causing certain cogs to click.
I took it to the bike shop to see if they can diagnose the problem and for warranty evaluation.
I took it to the bike shop to see if they can diagnose the problem and for warranty evaluation.
Try to check to specify your bike, chainring size, frame size at this link and double-check the chain length. Also check the Setup Key position whether it's correctly set.
https://axs.sram.com/guides/chain/calculator
https://axs.sram.com/guides/chain/calculator
I have done it all with a sram tech on the phone listening and watching. Something is out of spec. Hoping it's just the cassette.zscs wrote: ↑Wed Apr 19, 2023 9:29 amTry to check to specify your bike, chainring size, frame size at this link and double-check the chain length. Also check the Setup Key position whether it's correctly set.
https://axs.sram.com/guides/chain/calculator
New GX AXS. Source: https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/The-Hub ... 7?page=382
Hey fst - did you ever figure this out, out of curiosity?
I bought an XX SL goup set a couple weeks ago but haven't installed it yet. While inspecting the derailleur I noticed the same thing, I tried to simulate a stick getting "stuck" with a plastic pen, and the cog would not budge. I didn't press it as hard as I could but I did exert pretty considerable force and it does not move at all. I contacted the retailer I received it from and they told me that the whole system "operates best under load" and I should wait until it is installed on my bike to see if it works, but I find it hard to believe that the lower pulley actually needs to be under that heavy a load to function the way it's advertised (but hey, maybe I'm wrong).
FWIW, I wrote SRAM just for good measure, and got the following response:Jmbb37 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 27, 2023 1:12 pmHey fst - did you ever figure this out, out of curiosity?
I bought an XX SL goup set a couple weeks ago but haven't installed it yet. While inspecting the derailleur I noticed the same thing, I tried to simulate a stick getting "stuck" with a plastic pen, and the cog would not budge. I didn't press it as hard as I could but I did exert pretty considerable force and it does not move at all. I contacted the retailer I received it from and they told me that the whole system "operates best under load" and I should wait until it is installed on my bike to see if it works, but I find it hard to believe that the lower pulley actually needs to be under that heavy a load to function the way it's advertised (but hey, maybe I'm wrong).
"Thanks for reaching out, and I hope you're having a great week!
Congrats on the new XX SL groupset!
You are correct. The XX SL derailleur does come with the Magic Pulley wheel. To prevent play in the bearing of the pulley wheel and extend the lifetime of the pulley wheel, the necessary force to make the wheel go is relatively high. You would not be able to make it happen by hand, but it would function as it should on a bike while riding.
Let me know if you have any other questions."
I wrote them and basically asked if the Magic Pulley wheel could be actuated/simulated by hand, and they indicated here that no, it would need forces from a full riding load. I'm still skeptical, but I'll withhold judgement until I actually get it installed and manage to get a stick stuck up in there
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