Help a roadie spec a climbing MTB!

[FlatlandClimber]

Hi weightweenies,
I am looking at building a climbing focused MTB and have absolutely zero clue about anything MTB, so I need help!
I am a roadie/ gravel aficionado, who loves traveling and climbing. Since I have taken up increasingly many epic climbs, especially of the mega steep variety, the more I have run into the limitations that gravel and road bikes carry.
Several of the very evil climbs have either several kilometers beyond 15% incline on poor road surface (Alto de las Animas, Nebelhorn, Alpe Fuori) and others have long off-road sections, where gravel bikes can hardly keep traction (Mount Etna, Jausiers, Mauna Kea).

I figured: "Hey, I have an excuse to get a new bike!"
I was thinking the Open with 27.5" tires and AXS Mullet gearing could be that bike, but it isn't.
While it can get me up quite well, once at the top of such climb, it's a long and arduous procedure to get back down. I was thinking Gravel suspension fork, but why not go full MTB, which would be the best for the job.

So, Long story short: I need a MTB, that climbs and descends well.
I am a terrible bike handler, so while I'll do trails, it will be primary school stuff.
One thing that always kept me from buying an MTB, was the geometry: I did Etna and they didn't have a hard tail, so I had to go with a fully. The 760mm bars were stupid wide and the hand position was terrible ( for me). The bar was bent, so that my wrists had to rotate inwards (hands pointing outwards), which I was really painful to endure for this hourlong climb.

So maybe there is a good compromise somewhere, I really don't know:

Currently I am thinking:
- S-Works Epic HT
- Rock-Shox 100mm fork
- Extralite Wheels with Berd spokes
- Conti SpeedKing Protection 29" tires
- some boutique handlebar (recommendations? Recommendations to alleviate the wrist issue? Recommendations on how narrow I can go without making the bike stupidly twitchy? - it appears 750 to 770 is the gold standard nowadays, but I really hate how that feels...)
- Grips? (I have no clue what to look for here)

Additional questions:
Groupset:
SRAM Eagle AXS is great and all, and I have used it for several years on my Open. But I am currently in the process of transitioning all my other bikes to Shimano. So it kinda feels wrong to buy a SRAM groupset again.
Then again, the Shimano XTR looks old af. Not really interested in buying a new groupset and have them release a new one like 4 months later.
Wait? SRAM? What would you do?

Seatpost:
Not sure if a dropper post is important for my limited application. Possibly not. I would just go with something like Schmolke or Darimo, unless you'd recommend to definitely go with a dropper.

Really looking forward to your guy's input and learning more about MtBing.

[req110]

frameset: S-Works Epic HT or Mondraker Podium
fork: rock shox sid ultimate (no need for remote lockout, if yes, get twist)
gruppo: XX1 AXS, Quarq
handlebars: Gemini Propus, 740mm width is optimal for fast XC, stem lenght 7-8cm for optimal control on latest frameset geometry
wheelset: custom or roval
seatpost: s-works or darimo
tires: i wouldn't save grams here, get something with decent grip and protection, 2.35 inch
foam inserts: tubolight
saddle: some saddle around 140g... prologo dimension nack or s-works power
grips: whatever foam, ESI or some lighter ones

I have similar on Epic, but considering swapping for Epic HT too.

[stoney]

I have a 2020 Epic hardtail and love the bike. But I also have a 2015 Scott Scale that I have converted to my gravel bike. I put a rigid fork (Whiskey) on the front and run it with Conti Race King Protections which roll fast. I have my handlebar on it cut down to 700mm.

[req110]

The 2020 epic is still up to date right? Headtube angle 68.5 ?

[ghostinthemachine]

Get XT 1x12 groupset if you're only climbing.
Does everything XTR does at half the price, and as it's 1x, the weight penalty is negligible.

[TurboKoo]

Try to find Cannondale Scalpel HT, it’s wicked fast with modern geometry.

[eins4eins]

What about a Stoll?

Im shimano all the way, but when building HT mtb i would go Sram AXS. There are these cool builds where they replace the shifter with a Zwirbel and a blip Box hidden in a stem. Intense makes a suitable stem i think. Gives the cockpit a crazy clean look.

[boots2000]

I think your choices are good- But do you want it to be a "mountain bike"? Or a bike that just takes you deeper than a gravel bike in terms of dirt and terrain?
I feel like a hardtail is a gravel bike plus. That is not a bad thing. What I mean by that is that it will be better for a dirt course that has a higher % of dirt than a gravel bike, and will also do better on descents. But it is in no way a bike that is made for keeping up with other riders on full suspension bikes.

Like I said- I think your chocies are sound for a hardtail.
The only thing I might add is to question the durability of the wheels you are talking about. I am not saying that they are bad or not durable- I don't know. Just stating that wheels like Roval SL have proven to be really durable. Same for something like Light-Bicycles with your favorite hubs and Sapim Xray spokes.
Tires- I like Schwable. 2.1 Racing Ralph and 2.2 Racing Ray were my go to tires for hardtail. Fast, light, still a lot of grip.
Bars- I had 680 on my hardtail. I am running 720 on current bike, but I felt like the 680's on my hardtail were great. Mine wer Darimo- weighed about 100 grams.
Groupset. Can't go wrong with either. I had XTR on my hardtail, have AXS Eagle on my current rig. Both are great. Brakes better on XTR though. But you could easily run AXS with XTR brakes.
My hardtail was 18 lb/5 oz. ~8.3 kg. I think my current gravle bike wieghs about the same

[FlatlandClimber]

I think your choices are good- But do you want it to be a "mountain bike"? Or a bike that just takes you deeper than a gravel bike in terms of dirt and terrain?
I feel like a hardtail is a gravel bike plus. That is not a bad thing. What I mean by that is that it will be better for a dirt course that has a higher % of dirt than a gravel bike, and will also do better on descents. But it is in no way a bike that is made for keeping up with other riders on full suspension bikes.

Like I said- I think your chocies are sound for a hardtail.
The only thing I might add is to question the durability of the wheels you are talking about. I am not saying that they are bad or not durable- I don't know. Just stating that wheels like Roval SL have proven to be really durable. Same for something like Light-Bicycles with your favorite hubs and Sapim Xray spokes.
Tires- I like Schwable. 2.1 Racing Ralph and 2.2 Racing Ray were my go to tires for hardtail. Fast, light, still a lot of grip.
Bars- I had 680 on my hardtail. I am running 720 on current bike, but I felt like the 680's on my hardtail were great. Mine wer Darimo- weighed about 100 grams.
Groupset. Can't go wrong with either. I had XTR on my hardtail, have AXS Eagle on my current rig. Both are great. Brakes better on XTR though. But you could easily run AXS with XTR brakes.
My hardtail was 18 lb/5 oz. ~8.3 kg. I think my current gravle bike wieghs about the same

+1
Gonna reply more to this.

[Hexsense]

For bar comfort, correct back sweep amount is more important than the width. See video below and measure yourself up.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HSD7AkY4Ycc

If you found out you are the type that can benefit high backsweep,
while not the lightest,
consider Sqlab 311 FL-X 16 degree bar.
It is an xc bar (design to flex and add comfort) started at 740mm, which I cut to 710mm.

I recommend this bar because of that 16 degree backsweep. Bar with more backsweep is a lot more ergonomically similar to flared gravel bar than a low sweep flat bar common on mtb. That sweep naturally bring your elbow in a bit and it make wide bar feel more normal. I find bar with high sweep to be kinder to my wrist and shoulder than other bar with little to no backsweep. On road I use no sweep, completely front-back straight with no outward sweep. MTB, I can't use a completely straight in-out. It has to curve back to create front-back component more similar to road position.

Another minor plus: the back sweep shorten effective stem length where the grip is, so you need longer stem. With longer stem, the bar top near the stem is further out than usual. It can end up being a good length to hold for TT on mtb, while reserving grip reach short for good handling. See picture.

[Hexsense]

lightest grip common in pro rank is ESI grip.
It is cushy silicone which is completely round and light. However, it is not durable.

I personally like Sqlab 711 R grip in size m.
It is 29g heavier than ESI but it's ergonomic shaped, rather than completely round.

[req110]

Try to find Cannondale Scalpel HT, it’s wicked fast with modern geometry.

How come it's fast please?
Geometry is for sure progressive.

[stoney]

The 2020 epic is still up to date right? Headtube angle 68.5 ?

Yep, 68.5 headtube angle.

[FlatlandClimber]

Help me out. I know what a head tube angle is and can imagine it lengthening or shortening the wheel base. But what is considered "progressive" and why? What is the advantage of a slacker hta?
Again, main focus is climbing. Handling skills are low.

[de lars cuevas]

Whatever you do: buy a dropper, with a decent amount of travel (125 mm+). You say you're bije handeling is terrible: you will love the added safety of the lowered seat on the decent, and it'll be way more fun too!

+1 on. The sq lab bars. Don't cut them.

XTR is brilliant. And Shimano had better gearin
Steps than Sram No need for electronics.

Tubeless is a no brainer. You might want a front tire with more knobs for safer descending.