Cyclocross is tough on the parts !!

The spirit of Grav-lo-cross. No but seriously, cyclocross and gravel go here!

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LouisN
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Location: Canada

by LouisN

Our cyclocross race season ended last week end.
in Québec, eastern Canada, it lasts 6-7 weeks only.

I don't know if it's normal, but in less than 6 week ends races, I had to change 3 out of the 4 brake pads sets, only the Ashima are still running fine.
All the Derailleur pulleys ( 4 of them on the two bikes ) are shut, almost seized. SRam X9 Type 2 10S.

2 Rear hubs Had to be completely disassembled for bearing changes. And one front hub ( cheap Taiwanese).
Also overhauled the BB30 bearings in one bike.

I'm questioning if the weather conditions ( wet, cold and muddy this year) are the main reason for this, or the multiple on-site bike washes forcing water in the bearings....

Louis :)

by Weenie


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mattr
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Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

Well. The horrible mud forces you to do the multiple cleans. So I'd say both.

One reason why durability and sealing is more important than weight in CX.

SRAM mtb jockeys are notorious for being badly sealed, so that doesn't surprise me at all.
Fill them with grease before you even use them. Or get some better aftermarket ones.

Brake pads will last longer when they brake less. Hopefully.

mattr
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by mattr

You might also need to get some practice on where to spray the water to maximise cleaning whilst minimising time and damage.........

clarkson
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by clarkson

Yup. Another point worth consideration is that washing is only the start... The pain is drying and lubricating after each day to keep everything running smoothly.
Some things that I found very helpful were using metallic shimano pads, and Kogel CX sealed bearings. Both products feel new after multiple muddy races/washings.

mattr
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by mattr

Oh, thought you were running cantis?

If you are running discs keep a few sets of slightly pre used/bedded in pads in the tool box.

I find that a properly bedded in pad will last 4 or 5 times longer than slinging a brand new pair in. Especially in CX where you never really get the pads properly hot. So you are just grinding away a "soft" pad.

jmaccyd
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by jmaccyd

Yes, terribly wearing on kit and parts. I have a mid season service on my bike, new chain and headset and BB service and do it again with wheel overhaul at the end of the season. DON'T leave kit at the end of the season to stand around as it will seize up solid. SRAM jockey wheels are notorious for being rubbish. I find Swissstop pads (green or blue for ali rims) last really well, usually a whole season.

I now buy CX specific kit if it is available. I have Wickwerks CX specific chainrings having got through my Shimano ones in two seasons and have a CX specific saddle having broke others. Lots of lubricatin oil on anything really and fully sealed cables as well really help. I buy cheap rear mechs and sometimes just change them at the end of the season. Look after your tubs, especially the sidewalls by drying them properly after you have cleaned them.

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Lelandjt
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by Lelandjt

When you wash the bike use as little pressure as possible to rinse off the mud. Make a bucket of dish soap suds and and use a rag to cover the bike with soap and rub off the mud stains. Rinse the bike again, then get it in the warmest, driest, or sunniest place you can asap to dry out before corroding.

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LouisN
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by LouisN

Thanks for the comments!
Yes, both bikes I take care of are cantilever brakes.
I'm searching for good quality jockey wheels, and across the net I can't find "long teeth" jockey wheels like the SRam or Shimano Dyna Sys II systems.
Are they that important ?
can I put Dyna Sys II pulleys on a Sram derailleur ?
Are all clutch type derailleurs equipped with long teeth wheels ?
Can they prevent a chain drop better ? :noidea:
I guess I need to look for 12T jockeys, right ?
@clarkson, I searched for Kogel derailleur pulleys. Yikes !! Pricey !!
http://kogelbearings.mysimplestore.com/ ... ur-pulleys
Louis :)

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Asteroid
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Location: Los Angeles, California

by Asteroid

Hopefully those bearing overhauls involved sealed bearing swap-outs. It can get costly to replace hubs or wheels. Let us know how you fare with chains, cogs, and rings. Seems with cyclocross you can grind them into oblivion quickly!

Personally, my riding consists of year-round mileage in Southern California. Still, that means a good number of rides on wet roads, with higher maintenance efforts on the rain bike. I'm like the other posters here: use components that keep the crap out. Cyclocross kind of blows my mind, both from the physical and maintenance demands.
Oldbie

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jcrr
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Location: PNW USA

by jcrr

+1 on using a bucket with soap. I use a long-handle brush, and a tooth brush only for a few tiny areas where the big brush doesn't get the muck.

+1 on gentle water pressure and be strategic about how you spray (ie., I avoid spraying perpendicular to the head tube, into the lower part of the headset)

That said... cx is brutal on parts. The only 2 parts I have been impressed with in terms of durability are my Chris King PF30 BB, and dt swiss hubs.

the most bombproof part I own is an old 68mm DuraAce English BB. I have regreased that once in 8yrs of riding year round and racing cx, and it is smooth as butter. No creaks either....
"If it ain't broken, it could be lighter"

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F45
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by F45

I simply don't ride in the mud.

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LouisN
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by LouisN

Asteroid wrote:Hopefully those bearing overhauls involved sealed bearing swap-outs. It can get costly to replace hubs or wheels. Let us know how you fare with chains, cogs, and rings. Seems with cyclocross you can grind them into oblivion quickly!


It's not like I wished the sport wouldn't be what it is. I love it this way !! Tougher, muddier the better !!
I was just pointing out how tough it it on some bike parts. To me chain, cogs and rings is just normal.
I for shure will bring a more specific "special cleaning kit" to races and be more independant from race organisers setups.
And be more gentle on every area where there are bearings.
Bearing maintenance is not too hard to do. I wish it would be possible to swap bearings in jockey wheels but seems unlikely.
I tried but destroyed them :lol: .
I also wished I had the budget for parts like Kogel bearings and Chris King BB, but that's not the case.


Louis :)

wheelzqc
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by wheelzqc

Looks like my after Sherbrooke process :)

I had to change my pulleys after that , last year.

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jcrr
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Location: PNW USA

by jcrr

@LouisN- Specific to PF30/BB30, one argument to consider regarding the elevated cost of BBs by Chris King is this: How often are you replacing the cheaper plastic BB cups due to wear? If you race in particularly offending conditions, the replacement costs (and time) for this one part may start to add up.

My N=1 experience is I'm probably about even at this point in time, having spent the $ up front on the CK BB instead of constantly over many months. It is still smooth and has only needed service twice in 2yrs.

Alternatively, my other cx bike has a BB30 to BSA adapter sleeve pressed in, with an old DuraAce octalink BB. I only greased that once in its lifetime and simply because I was overhauling and cleaning everything. That piece of old technology has remained boomproof and worry free for the better part of a decade, and I have raced the heck out of that bike.

food for thought....
"If it ain't broken, it could be lighter"

by Weenie


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