Got such a good deal on some SRAM hydroR shift levers, and not the best performance of my modified Formula RX/R1 brakes, decided to strip and upgrade my cross bike.
It's a bit of a mongrel but works spot on shifting is perfect even if the shift levers have no audible click, and the brakes are much more like an mtb brake in feel which i prefer.
full spec list and photos below but i'll point out most of the mods, Rear mech is a 6770 Ultegra Di2 with a custom P knuckle that has a Shimano clutch mechanism inside it, and uses a OneUp Radr cage which having a larger offset to the top pulley gives better chain wrap on the cassette, have also changed to a Praxxis 10 speed 11-40 cassette so am running a Lindaretts / Wolftooth Road-link.
Brakes are SRAM hydro R levers operating Formula R1 callipers, which by virtue of a larger calliper piston diameter 21mm give a bigger braking force than the Sram road /cx 19mm brakes. There is a little bit more free lever travel before the pads hit the discs than the stock Sram hydro brakes on my Giant Defy, but it is more confidence inspiring braking from the hoods and drops with a more powerful initial bite to the brakes.
As i have detailed elsewhere on here, see link. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=141132
i've gone for a minimalist Di2 setup with the Stock Sram shift levers operating momentary switches, and the junction is the older SM-EW67A, dropped into the side of the frame to mount it flush, this actually required minimal opening up of a cable entry point on the frame.
Will get some better pics with the bars wrapped when its sunny
Final build weight is 7.9kg
Frame / forks Iplay 105D CF size 54,
Headset FSA, custom top cap / spacer
Seat post Rotor 3D
Saddle Rotor 3D
Stem Ritchey 4 Axis 90mm
Bars Hylix Carbon short shallow
Tape Zipp Service Course CX
Cranks FSA SLK, FSA bolts with POM spacers
Chainrings Bionicon Oval, 42 tooth bolted to inside of cranks for best chain line
Pedals XT SPD
Rear Mech Ultegra 6770 Di2, modded with Custom P knuckle with Clutch and OneUp RadR cage, Wolftooth Road link,
junction ‘A’ gutted and inside frame,with extended cables no junctions.
custom internal battery in seat-post,
electronics from external battery mount in downtube,
Shifters Sram Rival Hydro, gutted shifters operating switches linked to electronics from a SW600R climbing shifter,
RH upshift, LH downshift.
Brakes Formula R1 disc brake callipers
Rotors Ashima Ai2 160 front, 160 rear
Wheel Fr American Classic Disc 32 hole hub,
WTB i19 team issue 29er disc rim de-badged
DT swiss revolution spokes
Araya brass spoke nipples
9mm DT swiss RWS skewer
Schwalbe Racing raplh tyre setup tubeless
Wheel Rr American Classic Disc 32 hole hub,
WTB i19 team issue 29er disc rim de-badged
DT swiss revolution spokes
Araya brass spoke nipples
10mm DT swiss RWS skewer
Schwalbe Racing raplh tyre setup tubeless
Praxxis 11-40 10 speed cassette
KMC 11X sl chain
I PLAY 105D rebuild, Sram/Di2 & clutch rear mech
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Oh sweet, I have the same frameset and had also been contemplating how to get Di2 and hydraulic on the bike. Given your and other's mod's with the climbing shifter, I am probably going to leverage the climbing shifter and remote shift buttons along with TRP single speed hydraulic as I still want 2x11, but not the cost of R785 shifters.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
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- Posts: 334
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ms6073, I think you posted some photos of your 105D builds when i first looked at getting my frame-set.
I guess with the TRP's you are going for their shifter kit mod that repackages the climbing shifter on the side of the lever body.
it has reasonable reviews and i guess it depends if you ride mainly on the hoods or drops as to how ergonomic that setup would be.
You might want to consider modding a set of standard 6770 or 6780 Di2 brake levers to operate the Hylix master cylinder, and then just run extension cables to the control units hidden inside the frame. the levers can be picked up pretty cheap on Ebay etc, and the mod should be pretty easy to do.
i haven't played around with the TRP levers but the principal is much the same as other hydro lever systems.
Just a block with the relevant pivot points shaped to attach the cut down Di2 brake lever.
I guess with the TRP's you are going for their shifter kit mod that repackages the climbing shifter on the side of the lever body.
it has reasonable reviews and i guess it depends if you ride mainly on the hoods or drops as to how ergonomic that setup would be.
You might want to consider modding a set of standard 6770 or 6780 Di2 brake levers to operate the Hylix master cylinder, and then just run extension cables to the control units hidden inside the frame. the levers can be picked up pretty cheap on Ebay etc, and the mod should be pretty easy to do.
i haven't played around with the TRP levers but the principal is much the same as other hydro lever systems.
Just a block with the relevant pivot points shaped to attach the cut down Di2 brake lever.
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- Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:08 pm
Some better pics, not impressed with the adhesion of the vinyl wrap as its starting to peel allready but it will be easy to redo or i might just leave it off to save a few grammes. Brake discs changed to AVID HFX after pulsing with the Ashima's and waiting for a silver Thomson X2 stem to neaten up the front end.
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Here's my 105D with custom paint job. It's got Shimano 6870 Di2, internal battery and ST-R785 Hydro's. Iron Cross Pro wheelset running tubeless. Shifting and braking are so next level. So happy with it. Fantastic bike. Haven't cleaned it since Saturday's 55 mile gravel race.
Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch
Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch