NEW Trek Emonda ALR 2023
Moderator: robbosmans
I've designed a cover for this bike using the Deda DCR 36/45 compression ring. It was just an adjustment to the skirt length from an existing design, but still a custom job. They should be getting their parts soon and hopefully either me or they will show pictures in the next week or so. FedEx managed to lose our first set of parts, so the project is sadly running behind.
Its really hard to go lower with Deda compression ring than you can go with the Cervelo parts. I think those Cervelo parts will work to reduce stack to ~9mm, but you might get a similar gap vs the stock setup. Because of how big the Deda spacers are, you end up at 9mm being the stack height of whatever thing you put on top of the frame (8.5mm to the bottom of the cover, 0.5-1mm of clearance to the frame, 0.5mm of overlap with the bearing). I can integrate the FSA SMR or Sworks SL7 stem transition spacer with that design to save another 4-5mm but thats as low as I was able to figure out how to go without making a custom C-ring and keeping the hose bends doable.
I am slowly working on a version that uses the Trek W5274269 compresison ring with a similar design, might be a little lower than the Deda system if you are using a stem with wide spacing for the cables like the Enve Inroute, but it doesnt have the same potential to integrate with transition spacer so the overall stacks would likely be higher. Squinting at it, there might be a way to maybe get a pretty slamming looking solution with the S Works stems as well, but it would definitely be wireless drivetrains only.
DM me if you want more details on this stuff, hopefully not breaking any forum rules.
Edit: should add that this is like an Etsy scale thing for me.
Its really hard to go lower with Deda compression ring than you can go with the Cervelo parts. I think those Cervelo parts will work to reduce stack to ~9mm, but you might get a similar gap vs the stock setup. Because of how big the Deda spacers are, you end up at 9mm being the stack height of whatever thing you put on top of the frame (8.5mm to the bottom of the cover, 0.5-1mm of clearance to the frame, 0.5mm of overlap with the bearing). I can integrate the FSA SMR or Sworks SL7 stem transition spacer with that design to save another 4-5mm but thats as low as I was able to figure out how to go without making a custom C-ring and keeping the hose bends doable.
I am slowly working on a version that uses the Trek W5274269 compresison ring with a similar design, might be a little lower than the Deda system if you are using a stem with wide spacing for the cables like the Enve Inroute, but it doesnt have the same potential to integrate with transition spacer so the overall stacks would likely be higher. Squinting at it, there might be a way to maybe get a pretty slamming looking solution with the S Works stems as well, but it would definitely be wireless drivetrains only.
DM me if you want more details on this stuff, hopefully not breaking any forum rules.
Edit: should add that this is like an Etsy scale thing for me.
Going to take it to the shop today, the headset doesn't seem right and a guy I work with had a frame with an ovalized headtube where the bearing wouldn't sit in the pocket deep enough.justdank wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 2:07 amAs far as the frame I had manufacturing issues that got resolved when I brought it to the LBS and sent out for warranty. If you're not 100% about it had the shop look it over. Fork seems normal as it would suck in with the ThruAxle.rothwem wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2024 4:48 pmSo I got my frame in and started putting parts on it and realized that the dropouts are a little wonky on my bike--the rear needs to be spread a bit to get the hub in and in the front, there's a solid 5mm gap on either side of the hub endcaps between the fork drops.
Should I be worried about this? The wheels do go on and tighten up okay but my other bikes aren't like this.
Also, there's a giant gap between the top of the headtube and the bearing cap, did I put this together wrong? I haven't run any cables yet, just wanted to mock it up first. EDIT: just realized this is "Normal". Wtf.
IMG_1454.jpeg
The grey paint looks awesome though.
That headset space does seem a little bigger than most(including mine) Are you sure its in there peoperly with the bearings preloaded?
The rear axle also weirds me out, I've never had a TA frame where I had to spread the stays to get the wheel in.
Ah, man that's cool. If my Cervelo solution doesn't work, I'll check out your cap solution.apr46 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 5:59 amI've designed a cover for this bike using the Deda DCR 36/45 compression ring. It was just an adjustment to the skirt length from an existing design, but still a custom job. They should be getting their parts soon and hopefully either me or they will show pictures in the next week or so. FedEx managed to lose our first set of parts, so the project is sadly running behind.
Its really hard to go lower with Deda compression ring than you can go with the Cervelo parts. I think those Cervelo parts will work to reduce stack to ~9mm, but you might get a similar gap vs the stock setup. Because of how big the Deda spacers are, you end up at 9mm being the stack height of whatever thing you put on top of the frame (8.5mm to the bottom of the cover, 0.5-1mm of clearance to the frame, 0.5mm of overlap with the bearing). I can integrate the FSA SMR or Sworks SL7 stem transition spacer with that design to save another 4-5mm but thats as low as I was able to figure out how to go without making a custom C-ring and keeping the hose bends doable.
I am slowly working on a version that uses the Trek W5274269 compresison ring with a similar design, might be a little lower than the Deda system if you are using a stem with wide spacing for the cables like the Enve Inroute, but it doesnt have the same potential to integrate with transition spacer so the overall stacks would likely be higher. Squinting at it, there might be a way to maybe get a pretty slamming looking solution with the S Works stems as well, but it would definitely be wireless drivetrains only.
DM me if you want more details on this stuff, hopefully not breaking any forum rules.
Edit: should add that this is like an Etsy scale thing for me.
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Yeah, that's why I 3d printed a spacer to fill up that gap. Posted some pics earlier on this thread. Mine also had an issue also where the down tube bottle cage mounts were not properly installed. When I tried to remove the bolts, the insterts just spun. Brought it back to the LBS and the contacted Trek about it but were able to get it fixed.justdank wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 2:07 amAs far as the frame I had manufacturing issues that got resolved when I brought it to the LBS and sent out for warranty. If you're not 100% about it had the shop look it over. Fork seems normal as it would suck in with the ThruAxle.rothwem wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2024 4:48 pmSo I got my frame in and started putting parts on it and realized that the dropouts are a little wonky on my bike--the rear needs to be spread a bit to get the hub in and in the front, there's a solid 5mm gap on either side of the hub endcaps between the fork drops.
Should I be worried about this? The wheels do go on and tighten up okay but my other bikes aren't like this.
Also, there's a giant gap between the top of the headtube and the bearing cap, did I put this together wrong? I haven't run any cables yet, just wanted to mock it up first. EDIT: just realized this is "Normal". Wtf.
IMG_1454.jpeg
The grey paint looks awesome though.
That headset space does seem a little bigger than most(including mine) Are you sure its in there peoperly with the bearings preloaded?
So the Cervelo cap came in and it fits, sortof. It's a little larger in diameter than the headtube so it mushrooms over a bit. It's hard to see in pics but you can feel it when you run your hand over it. It has a similar size headtube gap as the stock cap, so the whole effect is kinda ugly. It's dramatically lower stack though, and I like that they include little cable grommets so the bearing isn't as exposed from the top.
On the stock cap, I found that I can grind the top of split ring a bit to decrease the gap. I just sanded a little bit to see and was able to get the gap down, maybe a half mm or so more and the gap will be closed.
Always, I'm not totally happy with either solution right now, though I might try grinding the cervelo cap to see if I can get it more flush.
On the stock cap, I found that I can grind the top of split ring a bit to decrease the gap. I just sanded a little bit to see and was able to get the gap down, maybe a half mm or so more and the gap will be closed.
Always, I'm not totally happy with either solution right now, though I might try grinding the cervelo cap to see if I can get it more flush.
FYI the Domane MKIV headset split ring and cover works seamlessly on the new ALR.
This might work with the headset cover since it doesn’t have the prongs. It sits pretty flush with mine.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equi ... g/p/42030/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This might work with the headset cover since it doesn’t have the prongs. It sits pretty flush with mine.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equi ... g/p/42030/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Its a little sloppy that Trek's service manual lists the domane (linked above) part as the stock part for both integrated stems and standard stems when thats not the part shown above thats supplied with at least some customer bikes: https://retailerassetsprd.blob.core.win ... UlT%2Fo%3D
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Hmmm...didn't notice that. So the splitring and the bearign cover that comes with the frameset is different. I took a look at the Domane AL Gen IV manual and it shows a 2-part shroud/bearing cover. See page 7 in the link: https://retailerassetsprd.blob.core.win ... UlT%2Fo%3D
Looks as though this design provides better protection of the bearing. Bearing part numbers are same W540243 for both so should fit but the shroud (W5308932) doesn't seem to be available on the website. However, the bearing cover (W5274615) does. Gonna check my local Trek dealer and look at the Domane AL Gen IVs.
Looks as though this design provides better protection of the bearing. Bearing part numbers are same W540243 for both so should fit but the shroud (W5308932) doesn't seem to be available on the website. However, the bearing cover (W5274615) does. Gonna check my local Trek dealer and look at the Domane AL Gen IVs.
Yeah, my main qualm with the Domane cover is that it's super tall. I picked my size based on the geometry charts, but they're just the frame stack, not frame+cap stack. So with an extra 15mm of spacer that changes the fit.BTBT wrote: ↑Thu Feb 29, 2024 1:40 amFYI the Domane MKIV headset split ring and cover works seamlessly on the new ALR.
This might work with the headset cover since it doesn’t have the prongs. It sits pretty flush with mine.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equi ... g/p/42030/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Probably won't be a huge difference but I'd like it to be the same numbers that I have from my previous bike fit.
I know what you mean about the top cap stack. I used to have this qualm on a previous endurance bike. It’s just 10mm so you can get a different. Stem angle to help get the bar height exactly where you want it. That’s the benefit over the RCS route. I run a 120mm -17deg stem. That puts the bar pretty much at the level of the upper bearing. If it’s the aesthetic of the stack height you don’t like I’d say you might want to consider a different frame that’s meant for a racier cockpit setup.rothwem wrote:Yeah, my main qualm with the Domane cover is that it's super tall. I picked my size based on the geometry charts, but they're just the frame stack, not frame+cap stack. So with an extra 15mm of spacer that changes the fit.BTBT wrote: ↑Thu Feb 29, 2024 1:40 amFYI the Domane MKIV headset split ring and cover works seamlessly on the new ALR.
This might work with the headset cover since it doesn’t have the prongs. It sits pretty flush with mine.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equi ... g/p/42030/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Probably won't be a huge difference but I'd like it to be the same numbers that I have from my previous bike fit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Not sure if got deleted, but I could have sworn there was a post in this thread using an FSA ACR stem. Has anyone else run this? The stack height looks pretty low.
These are the photos of the bike I mentioned 2 weeks ago, so its not the same as an FSA conversion that may have been published earlier:
This is a @flicker.racing (instagram) team bike.
It's possible with this design to go lower and integrate the SMR transition spacer with the top cap, removing the stack height of that spacer entirely. These do require the use of a the deda compression rings I mentioned earlier and I only have a few left now and they seem to be getting harder and harder to get. As I mentioned earlier, I am redesigning the part to use the Domane Gen IV compression ring which may be easier to get from a trek dealer and would keep the bike consistent with their service manual, but it would only work with the above design and would have a similar stack. This is my instagram post on this bike.
This is a @flicker.racing (instagram) team bike.
It's possible with this design to go lower and integrate the SMR transition spacer with the top cap, removing the stack height of that spacer entirely. These do require the use of a the deda compression rings I mentioned earlier and I only have a few left now and they seem to be getting harder and harder to get. As I mentioned earlier, I am redesigning the part to use the Domane Gen IV compression ring which may be easier to get from a trek dealer and would keep the bike consistent with their service manual, but it would only work with the above design and would have a similar stack. This is my instagram post on this bike.
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Hi! The Flicker bikes are ours. Aprotobike printed 8x of these dust covers and was super responsive throughout the process. They work perfectly.
While the Trek bearing is a 36x45 and mates with the FSA c-ring, the FSA ACR dust cover does NOT work with the ALR. There is a large gap between the bottom of the dust cover and the top edge of the head tube. The Trek bearing is not recessed in the headtube at all.
The ONLY way to use an FSA stem with a '24 ALR is with the 36 degree Deda c-ring and a custom dust cover from Aprotobike. It's a beautiful integration when it is done, though, and allows use of regular ACR spacers and any ACR stem/ barstem.
While the Trek bearing is a 36x45 and mates with the FSA c-ring, the FSA ACR dust cover does NOT work with the ALR. There is a large gap between the bottom of the dust cover and the top edge of the head tube. The Trek bearing is not recessed in the headtube at all.
The ONLY way to use an FSA stem with a '24 ALR is with the 36 degree Deda c-ring and a custom dust cover from Aprotobike. It's a beautiful integration when it is done, though, and allows use of regular ACR spacers and any ACR stem/ barstem.
Damn that looks clean. I think the SMR stuff is only for Di2 or etap though, right? I have an SMR handlebar and I can't see how the mechanical cables could be routed.apr46 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 04, 2024 12:41 amThese are the photos of the bike I mentioned 2 weeks ago, so its not the same as an FSA conversion that may have been published earlier:
This is a @flicker.racing (instagram) team bike.
It's possible with this design to go lower and integrate the SMR transition spacer with the top cap, removing the stack height of that spacer entirely. These do require the use of a the deda compression rings I mentioned earlier and I only have a few left now and they seem to be getting harder and harder to get. As I mentioned earlier, I am redesigning the part to use the Domane Gen IV compression ring which may be easier to get from a trek dealer and would keep the bike consistent with their service manual, but it would only work with the above design and would have a similar stack. This is my instagram post on this bike.
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