Sram Etap shifting noise/problems shifting smoothness.
Moderator: robbosmans
Is sram just a noisy drivetrain, when I shift to bigger cogs I feel like it makes a lot of noise, its not hesitating to shift, just noise.
also, I don't know if my chain is to short Iam using 50/34 with 11/25 cassette and counted 53 links but feel like it maybe needs 54 or 55 links, I feel that the shifting could be way smoother.
also dose anyone feel like sram Etap doesn't like to be abused as in like you need to be careful with with the front and rear shifting? I hope this makes sense.
also, I don't know if my chain is to short Iam using 50/34 with 11/25 cassette and counted 53 links but feel like it maybe needs 54 or 55 links, I feel that the shifting could be way smoother.
also dose anyone feel like sram Etap doesn't like to be abused as in like you need to be careful with with the front and rear shifting? I hope this makes sense.
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I feel like the FD shifting requires soft pedaling.... maybe just me
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
I agree with you for me it feels like it dose not like anything past 80 cadence, but I'm starting to think that it all has to do with the lack of cable feedback but idk just me. are your rear shifts smooth ? or do they make a lotto noise?
did you set chain length as in sram's instructions?Allen254 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 14, 2018 8:00 amIs sram just a noisy drivetrain, when I shift to bigger cogs I feel like it makes a lot of noise, its not hesitating to shift, just noise.
also, I don't know if my chain is to short Iam using 50/34 with 11/25 cassette and counted 53 links but feel like it maybe needs 54 or 55 links, I feel that the shifting could be way smoother.
also dose anyone feel like sram Etap doesn't like to be abused as in like you need to be careful with with the front and rear shifting? I hope this makes sense.
i think sram's red cassette is louder than others, but shifting is fine, if the shifting seems a bit off and you can't cure using the adjustment buttons, i'd check that the rear hanger alignment is ok
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If it is making noise while downshifting you can micro adjust the derailleur the other direction to center the upper pulley over the cog. Make sure your hanger is straight. Number of links doesn't mean anything in relation to chain length. You have to be able to ascertain whether your chain is too short by looking at it. Perhaps you would be better off taking it to a shop. As far as "not liking to be abused" not sure what you are talking about. I think it is a very robust system. Sounds to me like you either don't want to like etap or your system is not set up correctly.
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Maybe your chain is too short. Maybe you got it tensioned too tight. Maybe your hanger is getting more and more bent. Maybe your chain needs replacing.
Maybe your frame is on the smaller side and creates more extreme crosschain angles.
It could be worth checking these issues out. Check them off.
/a
Maybe your frame is on the smaller side and creates more extreme crosschain angles.
It could be worth checking these issues out. Check them off.
/a
Yeah I tried a new chain and put 54 links but 54 links was way to much and it wouldn’t hold tension on the small ring and smaller cogs, so I cut it to 53 links and it would hold more tension l, shifting improved but still wouldn’t hold tension on small ring small cogs so looks like 52 links is the correct length , the hanger is fairly new and sure it not the problem.alcatraz wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:05 amMaybe your chain is too short. Maybe you got it tensioned too tight. Maybe your hanger is getting more and more bent. Maybe your chain needs replacing.
Maybe your frame is on the smaller side and creates more extreme crosschain angles.
It could be worth checking these issues out. Check them off.
/a
I’m starting to think it’s all in my head and I’m just being nit pickey plus I’m new to sram so I’m sure that adds to it. .
Tension is usually adjusted with the B-screw.
Better have the chain a little bit loose on the small cogs than too tight on the large ring/cogs. Tight chain makes the drive train a bit grindy. (small/small should be avoided anyway)
I think for road setups as long as the derailleur doesn't bottom out in the small/small you got it configured nearly right. (Manual will tell you the right chain length and tension)
It's possible your rear derailleur has an issue with it's spring. It should be fairly similar tension regardless if the cage is 9 o clock or 5 o clock. Put a finger and move it a bit to get some clues.
I'm not a mechanic, these are just the things I would do if the bike were mine.
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Better have the chain a little bit loose on the small cogs than too tight on the large ring/cogs. Tight chain makes the drive train a bit grindy. (small/small should be avoided anyway)
I think for road setups as long as the derailleur doesn't bottom out in the small/small you got it configured nearly right. (Manual will tell you the right chain length and tension)
It's possible your rear derailleur has an issue with it's spring. It should be fairly similar tension regardless if the cage is 9 o clock or 5 o clock. Put a finger and move it a bit to get some clues.
I'm not a mechanic, these are just the things I would do if the bike were mine.
/a
if we are to follow SRAM eTap manual
the largest cog clearance should be 6-8mm and 4-6mm for short and mid cage (WiFli) respectively.
I'm using WiFli and 32T 1190, if the clearance is more than 6mm the shifting will be slower (esp at the higher end/smaller cogs)
the largest cog clearance should be 6-8mm and 4-6mm for short and mid cage (WiFli) respectively.
I'm using WiFli and 32T 1190, if the clearance is more than 6mm the shifting will be slower (esp at the higher end/smaller cogs)
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
okay so I think what I have been experiencing is mainly a break in period. I messed around with the B-screw and tired a longer chain, the longer chain didn't work so this morning I checked the gap and now all of a sudden it checks out in between 6 and 8mm probably closer to 7 but the b screw is all the way out. But now its shifting like butter WTF I have no Idea.
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If you have a long derailleur hanger the B screw will naturally be set very far out to compensate. It brings the upper pulley to it's correct distance from the cogs.
Good job.
If the chain is too slack in small/small then just remove a link. It just needs a little tension thats all. It's for road use, not mtb/cx. Besides you could use the lower friction right?
/a
Good job.
If the chain is too slack in small/small then just remove a link. It just needs a little tension thats all. It's for road use, not mtb/cx. Besides you could use the lower friction right?
/a