Replacement Zipp hubs worse than original!

[gitsome]

After a month of trying to locate the source of rattling in my front end, kept thinking it was a loose headset somehow, i finally realized its my front wheeel, its slapping around between the two brake pads like crazy! I just got it back from Zipp as per their recall/replacement deal and never imagined itd be the source of all that chatter. I am so frustrated and disappointed i have no more faith in this company at all. I will never buy Zipp again.



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[RyanH]

Did you check the preload?

[gitsome]

Did you check the preload?

On a front hub? I dont think its adjustable is it? LBS mechs installed them when the wheel returned from zipp

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[Nefarious86]

Replacement hub should be an 88 series unit.

On one side the end cap will be for adjusting pre load, the other side simply pinches over the axle and will be adjustable to allow them to remain parallel.

Users can adjust the pre-load on the bearings by tightening or loosening the clinch nut. To do this:
Use 2mm hex wrench to loosen set screw in non-drive pinch nut.
To increase pre-load, tighten non-drive clinch nut desired amount (standard right hand threads). Note: Zipp does not recommend increasing pre-load past the factory-set level. Increased pre-load reduces bearing life and increases running friction.
To decrease pre-load, loosen non-drive clinch nut desire amount.
To return to the factory-set pre-load, tighten the non-drive clinch nut until you just feel it touch the bearing. Then turn it counter-clock-wise 1/8 of a revolution to back it off the bearing. Once the quick release is loaded, the clinch nut will contact the bearing and provide a small amount of pre-load.
Secure clinch nut by tightening set screw to 0.8 Nm.

[gitsome]

Thanks. Factory preload is sbeyonf et and its pretty tight i dont think thats the issue it seems like an inferior hub design overall.. i shouldve kept the original. Zipp refuses to do anything beyond inspection if i want to lose another 5 weeks sending it back to them (it took at least that long to get it back if not longer) . I think zipp really sucks, im through defending them

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[ms6073]

Factory preload is sbeyonf et and its pretty tight

With proper preload adjustment, the rim should have next to no lateral play (< 1mm).

[gitsome]

Its got tons, so much i thought somehow my whole headset came loose!!! The hub end is so tight i tried unscrewing and theres barely any amt of turn left to tighten it. I think its really a matter of poor quality and design hub they are replacing the originals with. Youd think theyd offer an improvement to save face in a recall but instead they seem to have opted for a crappy 3rd rate substitue. Thus my annoyance and loss of faith in the company. They deserve to lose all the marketshare theyve been loosing honestly, with "service" like this.

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[1415chris]

"turn left to tighten it"?
Have you followed Nefarious86's write up?

[Nefarious86]

Ok, Photos of the hub are needed. The only ways this can happen as you describe are either incorrect pre load or by things being damaged. The only way this is possible is via lateral movement on the alxe or a collapsed bearing seat.

I'm all for a good witch hunt but lets work through the possibilities before dragging out the old "f$@k Zipp" bandwagon...

[gitsome]

Lol ok. LBS told me id have better luck w zipp directly, they just told me they dont do customer-direct anything so have to go thru LBS again. Hence my frustration. Its about a month old (new hub). Pics to follow...

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[dudemanppl]

It's probably user error.

[gitsome]

Hows that? Its direct from factory. If you have nothing constructive to add other than insults i suggest finding something else to do w your time

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[FIJIGabe]

What's the tension on the spokes? Did the shop check the wheel after Zipp rebuilt it, to make sure it was properly done (as in the spokes were properly tightened)?

[1415chris]

My one, when received from front hub recall replacement, I had to correct, the wheel was out of true.

[TheKaiser]

Ok, Photos of the hub are needed. The only ways this can happen as you describe are either incorrect pre load or by things being damaged. The only way this is possible is via lateral movement on the alxe or a collapsed bearing seat.

I'm all for a good witch hunt but lets work through the possibilities before dragging out the old "f$@k Zipp" bandwagon...

I haven't taken one of these new hubs apart, but, is it possible that the threaded section of axle is insufficiently long causing his preload adjuster to bottom out, and leading it to feel "tight" while still not actually preloading the bearing?

What about a poor tolerance on the axle OD, leading the bearing inner races to have radial slop?