Help me get my orbea orca 2017 down to 7kg

[ricardoreyes]

So i got this orbea orca OME 2017 coming in soon. However the weight is 18.02lb and would really like to know what to change in order to get it to just under 16lb. What are the cheapest things I can change and what are the more expensive ones?

Specs are here: http://www.wrenchscience.com/road/frame ... Bike/2017/

and here: https://www.orbea.com/us-en/bicycles/orca-m20 for more details.

Thank you!

[wheelsONfire]

You'd need to change components for lighter ones.
But that would render this purchase unnecessary.
You might aswell start off with a more expensive bike or start with a frame, and then buy those parts you want or have a dealer build a bike for you.

[2lo8]

"Vittoria Rubino Foldable 700x25 60TPI G+"

I didn't realize Vittoria was doing this now. It used to be their fake Rubinos and fake Zafiros were wire bead. I've found the cheapest way to reduce weight is usually to replace everything but the groupset, the wheels (still replace tape with veloplugs, Ti skewers, lightweight tubes and tires), the frameset and the headset (swap for lightweight spacers if needed). You can often get above more than 1g/$ of savings compared to the OEM stuff which is usually better than the ratio the manufacturer gives for upgrading the bike.

[ricardoreyes]

What components should I choose if I wanted this bike to be lighter? without going to dura ace or Di2 cause I just can't afford it.

[ricardoreyes]

"Vittoria Rubino Foldable 700x25 60TPI G+"

I didn't realize Vittoria was doing this now. It used to be their fake Rubinos and fake Zafiros were wire bead. I've found the cheapest way to reduce weight is usually to replace everything but the groupset, the wheels (still replace tape with veloplugs, Ti skewers, lightweight tubes and tires), the frameset and the headset (swap for lightweight spacers if needed). You can often get above more than 1g/$ of savings compared to the OEM stuff which is usually better than the ratio the manufacturer gives for upgrading the bike.

So you're basically saying I need a whole new bike? lol

[2lo8]

That's why at a certain point, if you don't want to pay the manufacturer's prices for weight reduction, you start doing frame up builds. But to lose 2 pounds, you're going to have to do a lot of parts swapping one way or another. Even switching from Ultegra to DA will only save you 2/3 of a pound.

[jobvisser]

Go sram red doubletap , i use a second hand groupset which was like new for $400

[hannawald]

going light is not cheap and usually on all components you have small gains.. you should google the components and find their weight. you can look for alternatives afterwards and see what your savings are. it will be 50 to 100g on all components so basically to go light you need to change everything.

what makes sense is changing wheels as you save a lot, you can make your bike much nicer and you can feel better wheels.. on stock bikes you usually have cheap wheels even if you pay 4000 euros for a bike. it is the first thing to upgrade. but it is not cheap. stock wheels on your bike are 1930g. you can loose half a kilo if you look around. other upgrades wont be as efficient. ultegra is fine.

[lewdvig]

I'm planning to do the same thing. It's actually easy to pare this bike down (prices are CDN). I got mine (M30) for $1799 shipped to me from the big box store that sells Orbea in Canada. No 'bike tech' twerp will have laid a finger on it either which is swell. This bike will replace my Giant Defy 2 for commuting - it's only 40km roundtrip and I want to be faster.

Start with the wheels: Vision 30 wheel set is 1900 grams, the tires are crap. Get some Zonda's setup tubeless and you are probably looking at 500 grams saved. Or china carbon if you are really brave. Wheelsets on bikes under $3000 are usually crap, so you'd be doing this anyways. I've ordered Zonda's with tires for well under $500 new inc shipping.

Switching to a SRAM drivetrain is probably another 200 grams - Rival is cheap. Keep the 105 crank as its better than Rival and weighs less. A whole 11s Rival gruppo is $500 from Ribble so the shifters and derailleurs should be around $200 used.

Ciamillo brakes save another 200 grams - buy them used as people are always rage quitting them instead of learning how to set them up properly.

Saddle is probably 320 grams. Saving 150 grams is easy - and also cost effective if you buy second hand. I bought a Ti Romin for $40 (they fit my but good). The seat post is probably too long, there is 50 grams there.

I did something similar with a Scott CR1 a few years ago - Fulcrum 3, Super Record ($450 used, LOL) and Negative G brakes built up to a sub 16 lb bike with pedals and cages.

[Kaboom]

If you're willing to switch to tubulars, you can find low profile full carbon tubie wheelsets for under 1k that will weight right around the 1kg mine. I own a set like this and absolutely LOVE them.
That'll drop you 2 pounds right off the bat.
If you can live with low profile wheels but not with tubulars, a wheelset built with Stan's NoTubes Alpha 340, lightweight spokes and a decent set of hubs will come in under 1300g and should cost around 500 bucks. With another couple of lighter components you'll be down to 16lbs in no time.
The most significant weight savings, at least initially, tend to come from the wheels...

[lewdvig]

I got the m30 with 105, so lower end than the OP. It weighs 8.9 kg with XT pedals, a cage and bell.

The saddle is 290 grams and the seatpost is 270 but very long. A better saddle and cutting the post is probably worth 220-250 grams.

The Vision wheels and new rubinos look cool. I will put a few hundred km on them before I switch to something else. That's 400 grams I think (zondas, tubeless fusions).

And I'll put some speedplays on that should drop another 200.

Maybe brakes if I can find a set of negative gs cheap.

7.8 seems like a reasonable target.

[lewdvig]

So here are some findings on the 2017 Orbea Orca M30:

53cm out of the box - no pedals: 8.49 kg

Front wheel complete (Vision 30, Rubino III 25mm, tube, skewer): 1.30 kg

Rear wheels complete (Vision 30, Rubino III 25mm, tube, skewer, 11-28 105 cassette): 1.85 kg

Sorry, I can't be bothered to weigh each component suffice it to say this combo is HEAVY!!! The tires may be salvageable, but I think every thing else must go.

Alternate set of reasonably light wheels:
Front wheel complete (Shamal, Conti GP4000II 25mm, tubes, skewer) 1.01 kg

Rear wheel complete (Shamal, Conti GP4000II 25mm, tubes, skewer, record 12-28) 1.47 kg

So just the wheel swap = 7.84 kg

That's pretty crazy. Obviously a chunk of that is the super light cassette, but 650 grams savings from a wheel set might be a record for me on road bikes. I'll swap the seat and put my speed plays on and should be in the 7.8 - 7.9 range.

[F45]

Change that crankset to a Red22 bb30 and save 200g.

FSA gossamer bars are over 300g

[lewdvig]

Change that crankset to a Red22 bb30 and save 200g.

FSA gossamer bars are over 300g

Thanks, I was wondering about the bar weight.

I'm going to wear out the 105 drivetrain on my daily commute and lose a bit more weight and then sell the bike next spring to get the OMP version with Red (I saw video that claimed a M was 5.4 kg out the door). Unless a well priced Red 22 Group pops up on the local classifieds.

This bike is amazing, other than weight. I usually ride my lighter Guru on rough roads and had a chance to do the same route on subsequent days - Sat on the Guru which is a comfy Ti bike and Sunday on the Orca.

The Guru had Shamals/25mm GP4000 and the Orca had Aksium Elites/Yksium Guard 28mm, so not really a fair comparison.

The Orca was more comfortable! The route I like is 50km with a couple of category 4 and one category 3 climb with subsequent descents. The difference on climbs and descents is insane. There is zero BB deflection (I may not be strong but I do weigh 86kg and I know how to use it) and it tracks so well on the way down. It's better than the TCR Advanced and CR1 bikes I've owned.

I had an Avant a few years ago and hated it. But the Orca is swell.

[Ade83]

Lewdvig, how at you getting on with your M30? I can't find any infomation/reviews on the OME frame set so it would be good to get it first hand.

The weight puts me off to be honest. 8.5kg out the box seems a little heavy. The few specs I have found online put it at around 8kg. How does it feel on the climbs?

Maybe I'll look at the M20. I think the only difference is ultegra. Maybe a 200-250g saving?

Thanks