Help with eTap rear derailleur hitting the spokes (on Canyon CF SLX)

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dorin
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by dorin

Frankie - B wrote:Americans and their liability laws....

It stikes me as odd that a person can not be held responsible for his or her own actions.

Sorry, I can not help you with that derailleur my friend.


New on bike mechanics, avid DYI builder (rc planes/jets), can a spacer of abt. 0.5mm be used to push the cassette away from the spokes. Else I'll try a hanger alignment, curious if that will work without affecting the shifting...

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Sounds like they're relying on the derailleur to break away first, still... if you're cresting a hill and just starting to head down the other side, it's true that a broken chain may just "fall gracefully away", or not. Meanwhile, your derailleur becomes free to just poke itself right into your turning wheel's spokes. Nice. Forget about the liability issues here, I just think that's a bad design. Of course there will be issues to consider if your chain breaks, so why add yet another one. Sheesh.
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mattr
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by mattr

dorin wrote:
mattr wrote:Sounds like another reason to avoid SRAM with a response like that. FFS.

Maybe I can fix it with a differently aligned hanger...look, worst case scenario this is what the insurance is for. As much as I contemplate to go to di2 (the functionality of the buttons on top of the shifters is aweosome) the shifting of eTap is just genius and is annoying going back. Like when you get your first Apple computer you wonder why you used windows for so long...
there is only one way to align a hanger, the right way. If you twist it so the mech misses the spokes without a chain. It'll not shift when you do have a chain on.

dorin
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by dorin

mattr wrote:
dorin wrote:
mattr wrote:Sounds like another reason to avoid SRAM with a response like that. FFS.

Maybe I can fix it with a differently aligned hanger...look, worst case scenario this is what the insurance is for. As much as I contemplate to go to di2 (the functionality of the buttons on top of the shifters is aweosome) the shifting of eTap is just genius and is annoying going back. Like when you get your first Apple computer you wonder why you used windows for so long...
there is only one way to align a hanger, the right way. If you twist it so the mech misses the spokes without a chain. It'll not shift when you do have a chain on.

Aligning the hanger is the one task I will let the mechanic do. Same about true-ing expensive carbon wheels

dorin
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by dorin

wouldn't a spacer between the hub and cassette solve the issue? A thin one, not the standard to be used with a 10spd, now have to find one, or CNC machined one...

gurk700
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by gurk700

Probably won't be able to help you but...

The only time this happened to me was when my chain was too loose. Got rid of one more link and everything worked perfectly. Limiter screw and/or bent derailleur hanger are the other potential culprits.

(when I cut the new chain I accidently didn't account for the added power lock link thing as at that point I was used to the shimano style pin)

dorin
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by dorin

I think I fixed it. Took the chain off (by the way is the power link from sram "re-usable"?!) and was taking pictures to send to sram and ask if the angle of the cage is off or this their yaw approach when I I thought aligning an angled jokey upper wheel with a "parallell" cassette Is just not possible, and took in consideration only the upper half of the jockey wheel and aligned the "travel" the chain would give to the cog then set the limit screw.

Apparently it worked! Healthy almost 2mm of space, smooth shifting (after some additional micro adj especially at the 11 teeth cog).

Now of course let's see how it will behave when under actual road torque pressure....need to wait for the hangers first, and c'mon why would be written on the hanger 2nM and on an updated manual dated 3 weeks ago 1.5nm...

Thanks for all replies, I'll provide an update as soon as I ride it!

Now off to skiing :)

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

Image
Image

Chain off with the mech in the top position. It just touches a sopke but not in a way that would catch anyhing.
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PinaRene
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by PinaRene

It all depends on the set-up and what type of wheels you use. I had the similar problem with the Campagnolo Bora wheels I have, but with my Mavic CCU there is no problem at all. I have a 2 to 3 mm. clearance when the chain is off, while my Campagnolo Bora will lose some spokes I guess.

dorin
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by dorin

It is now off to the mechanic, I tried...I needed anyway to have a mechanic bless the built :)

Vtrdaz
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by Vtrdaz

dorin wrote:It is now off to the mechanic, I tried...I needed anyway to have a mechanic bless the built :)


Did you get the catching sorted? any idea what was causing it?

dorin
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by dorin

Didn't post as a follow up here, it was with the mechanic, is a little lbs shop specialized mainly on triathlon and race bikes, no commuters to say like this, it was adjusted, play with limit screw, took off the chain and still hits the spokes, albeit very little. Bought a chain catcher from sram, mounted it for the piece of mind and i should be good...is not worth the hassle for a highly hypothetical situation, the chain Cather should prevent the eventuality of chain slipping if I change the chain ring. Totally forgotten abt this post, 1'5k km later, no issues :)

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PinaRene
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by PinaRene

TIP :

* What I did with my 11- speed wheels ( Bora One / Mavic CCU / Ultegra 6800 ) is a 1mm spacer ring behind the big cog like normally done on the 10 speed cassettes. Maybe I will let my colleague make some 0.7mm aluminium spacers in the future.

Now they all work well and fit the frame fine. The best thing is that the rear derailleur isn't touching the spokes anymore on the Bora wheels while the chain is off. The only thing you have to take care of, is that the lockring still works fine and has enough thread in the body.

I use a 12-28 cassette on the Bora's and the hardest thing was to get the rear derailleur on the 12. Limit screw is just touching and then it's perfect now.

Image

This is just 1mm in real life between derailleur and spoke 8)

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dorin
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 3:21 pm

by dorin

I ordered 2 spacers, the ones coming with the wheel sets are all 1.75mm, I hope 1 mm should work. I can close the lock ring but the 11 cog spins freely, let me try with the 1mm ones, the cost is ridiculously low (2usd)

Thanks for the tip, I'll report once I have it

Cheers, Dorin

PinaRene wrote:TIP :

* What I did with my 11- speed wheels ( Bora One / Mavic CCU / Ultegra 6800 ) is a 1mm spacer ring behind the big cog like normally done on the 10 speed cassettes. Maybe I will let my colleague make some 0.7mm aluminium spacers in the future.

Now they all work well and fit the frame fine. The best thing is that the rear derailleur isn't touching the spokes anymore on the Bora wheels while the chain is off. The only thing you have to take care of, is that the lockring still works fine and has enough thread in the body.

I use a 12-28 cassette on the Bora's and the hardest thing was to get the rear derailleur on the 12. Limit screw is just touching and then it's perfect now.

Image

This is just 1mm in real life between derailleur and spoke 8)

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