I used a bit of sandpaper so it would fix better and since then zero problems. Regarding the bolt, I'm looking forward to replace it since I want to get the seatpost a little bit up, but I'm stuck because I can't unscrew it. The allen just don't engage because the "hole" (not sure how to call it in English) is almost a circumference now. I can't tell you how many times it has been used tho, cause the bike is second hand.steveadore wrote: ↑Fri Apr 21, 2023 9:08 pmSo fixing the slipping is a one-and-done? I always use quality tools (and torque wrenches), but is that bolt really that bad? How many times have you had to replace it so far? I've heard there's a titanium upgrade available from Specialized but not sure if it's any better thoughpunkhead77 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 21, 2023 8:52 pmI can answer to the first one: yes, the seatpost can slip sometimes, but once adjusted you should have no problems. Yes, the bolt rounds off quickly. Actually I have this issue right now and I wonder if someone have any ideas of how to substitute it.steveadore wrote: ↑Fri Apr 21, 2023 8:44 pmReviving this thread for two main questions:
1. After all these years, what the verdict on the wedge-style seatpost clamp in terms of long-term reliability. I've read some complaints about seapost slippage and the bolt being prone to rounding off. Are these real issues? As long as I observe the Spec. recommendations from the manual where to use grease and where carbon paste on the wedge, and then twist the post back and forth after tightening and then re-tightening (possibly to 6-8 Nm max, as per the updated instructions from Spec.), could the seatpost still slip? And could the seatpost even be scored by the wedge? Also, how easy is it to round off the bolt head (I've come across some online discussions saying it's "made of cheese")?
2. Has any of you installed a FSA (or Sram) BB30-to-threaded BSA one-piece cylindrical adapter sleeve in the SL6 to use Shimano cranksets? Or, alternatively, has anyone had long-term experience with Hambini BB30-to-BSA bottom brackets (also one-piece alloy cylinder)? Both of these are normally recommended to be installed with medium-strength retaining compound (Loctite 609, for example). What I'm interested in is how reliable and creak-free these solution are in the SL6
S-Works SL 2018
Moderator: robbosmans
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yep, I've seen that rounding of the hex shape on an SL6 that is almost brand new.punkhead77 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 11:31 amI used a bit of sandpaper so it would fix better and since then zero problems. Regarding the bolt, I'm looking forward to replace it since I want to get the seatpost a little bit up, but I'm stuck because I can't unscrew it. The allen just don't engage because the "hole" (not sure how to call it in English) is almost a circumference now. I can't tell you how many times it has been used tho, cause the bike is second hand.steveadore wrote: ↑Fri Apr 21, 2023 9:08 pmSo fixing the slipping is a one-and-done? I always use quality tools (and torque wrenches), but is that bolt really that bad? How many times have you had to replace it so far? I've heard there's a titanium upgrade available from Specialized but not sure if it's any better thoughpunkhead77 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 21, 2023 8:52 pmI can answer to the first one: yes, the seatpost can slip sometimes, but once adjusted you should have no problems. Yes, the bolt rounds off quickly. Actually I have this issue right now and I wonder if someone have any ideas of how to substitute it.steveadore wrote: ↑Fri Apr 21, 2023 8:44 pmReviving this thread for two main questions:
1. After all these years, what the verdict on the wedge-style seatpost clamp in terms of long-term reliability. I've read some complaints about seapost slippage and the bolt being prone to rounding off. Are these real issues? As long as I observe the Spec. recommendations from the manual where to use grease and where carbon paste on the wedge, and then twist the post back and forth after tightening and then re-tightening (possibly to 6-8 Nm max, as per the updated instructions from Spec.), could the seatpost still slip? And could the seatpost even be scored by the wedge? Also, how easy is it to round off the bolt head (I've come across some online discussions saying it's "made of cheese")?
2. Has any of you installed a FSA (or Sram) BB30-to-threaded BSA one-piece cylindrical adapter sleeve in the SL6 to use Shimano cranksets? Or, alternatively, has anyone had long-term experience with Hambini BB30-to-BSA bottom brackets (also one-piece alloy cylinder)? Both of these are normally recommended to be installed with medium-strength retaining compound (Loctite 609, for example). What I'm interested in is how reliable and creak-free these solution are in the SL6
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Any advice on how to unscrew that rounded bolt?
Hello,
Bike is to sale : 7 500 €
Will be on BuyCYcle.de soon. Weight : 5.4 kgs
Bike is to sale : 7 500 €
Will be on BuyCYcle.de soon. Weight : 5.4 kgs
www.baron-noir.com
Specialized Aethos SUB5
Specialized Tarmac SL8 - 5.35 kgs
Specialized Tarmac SL6 - 5.16 kgs
Scott SPARK RC 900 SL SUB 8
Specialized Epic HT - 6.18 kgs
Specialized Aethos SUB5
Specialized Tarmac SL8 - 5.35 kgs
Specialized Tarmac SL6 - 5.16 kgs
Scott SPARK RC 900 SL SUB 8
Specialized Epic HT - 6.18 kgs