How to wire up new Bar-End Junction A for Di2 (EW-RS910)

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cyclespeed
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by cyclespeed

KCookie wrote:
cyclespeed wrote:Looks very cool indeed.

Could you not do 'à la Specialized' and take the Di2 cable into the frame with the rear brake cable, then loop it round the headtube? Saves splitting them up.

Unfortuantly the hole in the head tube isn't big enough for both cables, the only option is to make the hole slightly bigger, but that will be when the warranty on the frame has run out.
The more I look at it, the more it bugs me. !!


Sorry!

raggi
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by raggi

Possibly a silly question, but how do you cleanly wrap the bartape with the RS910 installed? Anyone got pics/video? Also, is there a way to do it while starting from the top (and thus not having to tape the top)?

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Delorre
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by Delorre

KCookie wrote:Coming on nicely. ImageImage

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Still no issues with the drilled out handlebar? I'm scratching my head as how to install a bar-end junction on a superlogic handlebar, and off course, drilling is the solution. I had in mind to drill a hole in both bar ends and run longer wires. But if your bar are is in 1 piece, even when drillend in stressed areas, why not the way your lbs did?

KCookie
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by KCookie

Absolutely no issue's at all. !!!

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murphyk
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by murphyk

Having read all 11 pages, I think I'm able to run a 1x setup, but want to ask you experts to be 100% sure.

My plan is to run the rear mech and battery direct to the left hand shifter. Then run the left hand shifter to the right hand one. And the right hand shifter direct to the bar end junction.

I'd set it up so the LHS changed up a gear, and the RHS changed down (or vice versa).

As i don't need a front mech, and don't want any additional shifters, I think it means I can get away without a B junction box.

Amiright?

And if i did want to add an r600 climber shifter, i could run it to one of the spare ports on the right hand shifter.

Would that work? Or have I fundamentally misunderstood anything about Di2?

Thanks.

kode54
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by kode54

djwalker wrote:I asked Enve about cutting off the end since I have Enve bars on one bike. They strongly recommended against it and said that they used variable wall thickness in the bars t control weight and stiffness and cutting off the end might make the bars more likely to fail. Also, you'd still need to drill a hole in the bars in addition to cutting off the end to get the wires into the bar.


Their new Road SES Aero bars now come with a cutting line to accommodate the bar end junction box. I suppose you need to cut both ends off to match? but hey, i don't want to replace all my Enve bars to accommodate the bar end box. i'll have to just tolerate it being under the stem.
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ms6073
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by ms6073

kode54 wrote:I suppose you need to cut both ends off to match? but hey, i don't want to replace all my Enve bars to accommodate the bar end box.

Enve's support document on Di2 cable routing shows a replacement bar end cover being used on the cut end where the EW-RS910 is installed:

Image
Last edited by ms6073 on Tue Aug 22, 2017 3:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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2old4this
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by 2old4this

murphyk wrote:Having read all 11 pages, I think I'm able to run a 1x setup, but want to ask you experts to be 100% sure.
My plan is to run the rear mech and battery direct to the left hand shifter. Then run the left hand shifter to the right hand one. And the right hand shifter direct to the bar end junction.


I went with an easier (more commonly used) route. I've connected the cable coming from rear junction to the one of the sockets in the bar-end junction. I've connected a short cable (connected to an internal d-fly) to the other plug on the bar-end. The other end of the d-fly is connected to the short cable of the y-splitter, which is connected to the shifters.

Since the bar-end junction, the d-fly, and the y-splitter are all in the bar, it is a fairly clean install...

kode54
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by kode54

ms6073 wrote:
kode54 wrote:I suppose you need to cut both ends off to match? but hey, i don't want to replace all my Enve bars to accommodate the bar end box.

Enve's support document on Di2 cable routing shows a replacement bar end cover being used on the cut end where the EW-RS910 is installed:

Image


that's awesome. thx for posting this.
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P90Puma
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by P90Puma

w8weenie wrote:
Delorre wrote:Is it possible to go end to end internally on your SL-70, f.ex to be able to wire from shifter to shifter?


Sorry, I should have tried that before. I'm happy to report that the SL-70 is open through the stem clamping area as well. I used a cable housing for this, and based on the noise I heard when the housing passed through the stem clamping area, there also appears to be plastic packed in that area. I was able to twist the housing and get it to pass through without too much difficulty.


Did you ever get this to work? Thinking of going R9150 with EW-RS910 and SL-70 Aero bars for new build.

murphyk
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by murphyk

2old4this wrote:
murphyk wrote:Having read all 11 pages, I think I'm able to run a 1x setup, but want to ask you experts to be 100% sure.
My plan is to run the rear mech and battery direct to the left hand shifter. Then run the left hand shifter to the right hand one. And the right hand shifter direct to the bar end junction.


I went with an easier (more commonly used) route. I've connected the cable coming from rear junction to the one of the sockets in the bar-end junction. I've connected a short cable (connected to an internal d-fly) to the other plug on the bar-end. The other end of the d-fly is connected to the short cable of the y-splitter, which is connected to the shifters.

Since the bar-end junction, the d-fly, and the y-splitter are all in the bar, it is a fairly clean install...


This Di2 malarky is complicated!

Having investigated, it appears that if I use the new Dura ace 9150, I don't think i need the d fly unit as it has the bluetooth connectivity built in.

So in principle, can anyone confirm if i run rear mech and battery to the left hand shifter, left hand shifter to right hand, and right hand to bar plug it would work?

Are there any other more effective/efficient ways of doing it? This way I lose the weight of the B junction and I think I don't need to run a d fly or Y splitters...

Thanks

ipenguinking
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by ipenguinking

While not sure your definition of 'built-in', you'll need EW-WU101 or the new EW-WU111 plus BT-DN110 for bluetooth connection using 9150.

gmarsden
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2017 4:52 pm

by gmarsden

murphyk wrote:
2old4this wrote:
murphyk wrote:Having read all 11 pages, I think I'm able to run a 1x setup, but want to ask you experts to be 100% sure.
My plan is to run the rear mech and battery direct to the left hand shifter. Then run the left hand shifter to the right hand one. And the right hand shifter direct to the bar end junction.


I went with an easier (more commonly used) route. I've connected the cable coming from rear junction to the one of the sockets in the bar-end junction. I've connected a short cable (connected to an internal d-fly) to the other plug on the bar-end. The other end of the d-fly is connected to the short cable of the y-splitter, which is connected to the shifters.

Since the bar-end junction, the d-fly, and the y-splitter are all in the bar, it is a fairly clean install...


This Di2 malarky is complicated!

Having investigated, it appears that if I use the new Dura ace 9150, I don't think i need the d fly unit as it has the bluetooth connectivity built in.

So in principle, can anyone confirm if i run rear mech and battery to the left hand shifter, left hand shifter to right hand, and right hand to bar plug it would work?

Are there any other more effective/efficient ways of doing it? This way I lose the weight of the B junction and I think I don't need to run a d fly or Y splitters...

Thanks


There are only two E-tube ports on a shifter, the third port is for the dedicated sprint shift button.
I would run two cables from the bar end junction box, one to each shifter. Then you could connect the battery to one shifter and the rear der. to the other.

tabl10s
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by tabl10s

bikerdan wrote:I've picked up Dura Ace 9070 Di2 derailleurs and shifters while they are going cheap. Now I'd like to buy the cables too but I'm unsure on how you wire it up with the new bar end junction box when it comes out? Seen the first shops are now listing it...even if they don't have it yet

My Ultegra Di2 setup was pretty easy...2 x 250 to the junction box under the stem and then down to the bottom bracket. But with the new bar end junction box I'm guessing I'll need a short cable from the nearest shifter, a longer one from the other that travels over to the bar end and then a long one that goes from the bar end and then all the way back through the bars and off down the the BB ? Is that right ?

Haven't managed to find any diagrams showing this setup yet....

Tried having this done last week, but it wasn't possible with the Zipp SL 70 Aero bar.
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2old4this
Posts: 366
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2014 7:26 am

by 2old4this

[quote="gmarsden]
There are only two E-tube ports on a shifter, the third port is for the dedicated sprint shift button.
I would run two cables from the bar end junction box, one to each shifter. Then you could connect the battery to one shifter and the rear der. to the other.[/quote]

In theory, it should work but...

on my bike, I have a 60 cm cable from the rear der to the junction B, right after the BB in the down tube. From Junc B to bar-end, I have a 120 cm cable. You'll need a cable 180 cm if you want to go from rear der to one of the shifters.
From battery to the other shifter, you'll need another 60+120 cm.

I do not know if Shimano makes a 180 cm wire (longest I know is 140 cm)

I would put a junc B in the middle for simplicity, and will have a couple of available ports for climbers shifter. You may even save some weight

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