How to wire up new Bar-End Junction A for Di2 (EW-RS910)

[billyd0012]

Has anyone actually bought the EW-JC130 yet? Trying to figure out what size I should get for a 44cm bar or if I even need it.

Wouldn't it be easier to just take a 650mm di2 cable from the left shifter port to the new EW-RS910 bar end, then run a 350mm wire into the right shifter port, then run a wire to the Bluetooth / ANT module, then the wire from the B junction. While you will lose a port within the right shifter for other buttons (ie: climbing shifter, etc), you won't have the added bulk of the JC130 wiring.

With regards to drilling holes in the aluminum bars, wouldn't it be cleaner to drill a hole close to each shifter and another close where the bar attaches to the stem and run everything internally?

[strangely]

You are correvt that you dont need the y cable if you wire it directly to a shifter. I wired mine that way and posted about it in the 9100 thread.

[cyclespeed]

@sugarkane:


What drill bit should I use?

A sharp one!

Start with a pilot hole, like 2mm, with a good quality, ideally new, metal drill.

Then enlarge it to the size of the Etube connector, I think it's 6mm can't remember offhand.

But you'll need 2 holes, so either that, or drill 2 very close together to make a kind of 'lozenge' shape.

[tilf]

I think it's 6mm can't remember offhand.

The connector is 5mm, but a "standard" di2 hole is usually 6mm to give extra room and to take the grommet.

[grouk]

i will try to explain my setup, i connect one shifter to other then in one shifter out one cable that connect in the striped junction box that is in the handlebar. then from the other shifter leave a cable that connect to the 4 port junction box


in my mtb i don't use 4 port junction box simply connect all the black to black´s and red to red´s and soder

now i am waiting a speedmax cf 8.0 and i pretend to do the most cheap di2 possible, using alfine parts and diy buttons

[sugarkane]

6mm plus a 2mm offset hole if you need to run more than one cable.

in the flat face of the bar not in the bends

[idinfo68]

My solution : all internal on one Haero H.380

[Pokerface07]

does anyone know if i can use the EW-RS910 bra end junction box without the Y cable (EW-JC130?
i have the same bars that came on the 2016 Scott foil which has a recess in side to hide a normal 3 port junction box. so was wondering if i can just use one of the cheaper 4 port junction B (SM-JC41 which would typically reside in the BB area) and stick in inside the stem and connect each shifter to it and on cable down to the BB - which is how i currently have the 3 port junction A hooked up.

Probably late to the party, but it was impossible to get wires past the bends in the 1-piece Syncros Bar/stem that came with my Foil. Like many other bars, that area appears to be reinforced on these bars.

I swapped to a set of 3T AeroNovas (with the Syncros stem made for the Foil) and it was no problem.

[mr4fox]

Yeah I forgot to chime back in...I found this out too. So just decided to stick with the original 3 port junction box.

Good to know that it's possible on the arronovas as I have a spare pair of those that will eventually go on another bike. Thanks for the tip


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[Markedwards]

Probably late to the party, but it was impossible to get wires past the bends in the 1-piece Syncros Bar/stem that came with my Foil. Like many other bars, that area appears to be reinforced on these bars.

I swapped to a set of 3T AeroNovas (with the Syncros stem made for the Foil) and it was no problem.

Hey, so no issues with carbon aeronova?
I've just tried to run cables through my ergonova and the lever clamp area is blocked, quite fancy the aeronova but don't want to order and find the same problem...
Also the internal cable area, looks like quite a large opening, does it just go into the main bar cavity?

[Pokerface07]

Hey, so no issues with carbon aeronova?
I've just tried to run cables through my ergonova and the lever clamp area is blocked, quite fancy the aeronova but don't want to order and find the same problem...
Also the internal cable area, looks like quite a large opening, does it just go into the main bar cavity?

No problems for me with the carbon Aeronovas. Have wired up 2 sets now - 1 LTD and one Team. Used the Park tool wire/magnet tool to feed cables back and forth. Not easy to get through the bends but managed it eventually.

Not sure what you mean about the internal cable area question though?

[strangely]

Used the Park tool wire/magnet tool to feed cables back and forth. Not easy to get through the bends but managed it eventually.

String and compressed air is your friend here

[Pokerface07]

Used the Park tool wire/magnet tool to feed cables back and forth. Not easy to get through the bends but managed it eventually.

String and compressed air is your friend here

When you are trying to feed 2 (or even 3) wires/cables through the same constricted space, that just ain't gonna do it.

[strangely]

@Pokerface07, You only need one string to pull all the other stuff through if need be.

When I did mine last week I was also surprised how well it worked and I was expecting to maybe have to remove my brake cable and my hacked climbing shifter (cat eye buttons), however it blew straight through with no problem.

The only difficulty was then trying to get the etube connector through due to the reinforcing carbon that 3T uses on the inside of the top cable exit that forces the cable round on itself in the limited space inside the bar, and so after a minute or two of trying I decided to use an old sliced etube cable (one that got damged in the past) and then resolder it after.

[Westbank]

Aside from the 3T Ergonova, any other good non-aero carbon handlebar with internal wiring ?