Convert back to BB30?
Moderator: robbosmans
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I hope you guys don't mind me borrowing the thread for a question.
I noticed my bb30 bearings (at least one of them) dont require much force to get out. Few gentle knocks and they are out. I don't even need a hammer on the extraction tool. Few hits with the open palm is enough. (I did grease the outside before install)
I'm not using any loctite 641 because I don't experience creaks. Should I still use loctite to protect the bb30 sleeve?
Should I be worried?
/a
I noticed my bb30 bearings (at least one of them) dont require much force to get out. Few gentle knocks and they are out. I don't even need a hammer on the extraction tool. Few hits with the open palm is enough. (I did grease the outside before install)
I'm not using any loctite 641 because I don't experience creaks. Should I still use loctite to protect the bb30 sleeve?
Should I be worried?
/a
- bikerjulio
- Posts: 1900
- Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
- Location: Welland, Ontario
Kind of confusing thread.
Wheels don't make a "sleeve" to convert BB30. What they make are delrin adapters that are pressed, not "spun", into existing BB30 bearings.
Wheels don't make a "sleeve" to convert BB30. What they make are delrin adapters that are pressed, not "spun", into existing BB30 bearings.
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?
One.
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM
How many drivers does a buggy have?
One.
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM
@juanmoretime: If the sleeve is sound and solid in the frame I would just leave it. Getting it out might cause more problems than it's worth. One, you would likely have to thread a bushing or old bottom bracket cup into one side of the sleeve in order to have something solid to pound against in order to break it free and release it. Two, if you do get it out, and a strong retaining compound was used (the change made is in fact meant to be a permanent change), then the grooves for the BB30 clips would likely be gunked up with retaining compound as well and prove quite difficult to clean up. Third... I'm not sure why you want to change it out in the first place. The only reason you mention is because you think a BB30 system might be "lighter". Hmmm... with the current install... it is threaded, standard English thread I presume. You're thinking of changing out the crank anyway if I've read correctly... so if the sleeve is sound, I would just either stick with the GXP stuff or remove it and install any crank/BB of your choice, just not BB30.
Also, I read about your battle you're going through. Sounds like if anyone can beat it, you can.
Also, I read about your battle you're going through. Sounds like if anyone can beat it, you can.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
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Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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- Posts: 268
- Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2013 2:15 am
+1 on that. My CAAD was built on a second-hand frame with an alloy press in converter fitted with loctite. Removing the converter was an absolute nightmare. Two or three local mechanics knocked the job back out of hand. I ended up cutting it through with a hacksaw, then pressing it out with a bottle jack tack-welded into a vice, with an electric heat-gun applied to the shell to break down the loctite, and the whole time being prepared to write it off as a bad job (Irish engineering mantra). This was after trying all the alleged correct tools for the job. Picking the circlip grooves clear was a day's work in itself. In fairness, the result was great, but it was a job I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
- bikerjulio
- Posts: 1900
- Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
- Location: Welland, Ontario
If Wheels did indeed ever make a sleeve adapter, I stand corrected. Google shows no record of such a thing. I see FSA, SRAM and NN BSA adapters, but no Wheels.
That being said, if OP has a pressed in BSA adapter, I'd leave it in place.
That being said, if OP has a pressed in BSA adapter, I'd leave it in place.
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?
One.
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM
How many drivers does a buggy have?
One.
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM
I know this is always controversial, but all my experiments have shown to me that it is not the BB30, per se, that is the problem, but the prior generation of cranks that used wave washers to supply the lateral preload.
On my own BB30, for which I have previously described my own struggles when using a SRAM Force crank (with wave washer).
All problems have disappeared and never returned as soon as I abandoned the wave washer installation method.
Initially, I used the "precise shim" method to eliminate the wave washer. That worked.
Then, I rode with a SRAM GXP crank with the Wheels Mfg delrin spacers for about a year. That worked fine.
Then I switched to SRAM Red, with the "preload nut". That has also worked fine.
BB30 (IMO) is OK if you have a rigid side-side preload system (not wave washer).
On my own BB30, for which I have previously described my own struggles when using a SRAM Force crank (with wave washer).
All problems have disappeared and never returned as soon as I abandoned the wave washer installation method.
Initially, I used the "precise shim" method to eliminate the wave washer. That worked.
Then, I rode with a SRAM GXP crank with the Wheels Mfg delrin spacers for about a year. That worked fine.
Then I switched to SRAM Red, with the "preload nut". That has also worked fine.
BB30 (IMO) is OK if you have a rigid side-side preload system (not wave washer).
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