Fizik R1 carbon rail; loose...
Moderator: robbosmans
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Hi
Has anyone had the carbon rail on their R1 develop play in it, where it enters the seat at the rear?
The right side rail on my R1 has a bit of play in it, which makes a clacking noise when I am writhing my taint about on it, under power.
If you have, did you find a way to fix it? Seems the whole seat is glued together, so taking it apart doesn't seem an easy option. Willing to try to fix it the hard way, of course, if anyone has any suggestions they have tried which worked.
Has anyone had the carbon rail on their R1 develop play in it, where it enters the seat at the rear?
The right side rail on my R1 has a bit of play in it, which makes a clacking noise when I am writhing my taint about on it, under power.
If you have, did you find a way to fix it? Seems the whole seat is glued together, so taking it apart doesn't seem an easy option. Willing to try to fix it the hard way, of course, if anyone has any suggestions they have tried which worked.
Mine also creaks, I had a look as well and found the whole thing glued/bonded together. My Google on this issue seems to be people trying to put lubricant or mineral oil at the glued areas and that seems to have worked? It didn't really understand how applying lube to a glued joint would make it creak less so I didn't really give it a try. Saddle is sitting in a box unfortunately, and Fizik didn't respond to any emails asking for advice.
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- wheelsONfire
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If your saddle creaks it can also be when it moves (even micro-movements).
I think people use silicone spray to stop this. You can spray at the nose and rear attachments rail to saddle shell.
It does not damage anything. So a good test is using silicone spray.
Some saddles rails also creak in in the junction with the seatpost mechanism. You can even spray this with silicone spray.
Some people use silicone spray at titanium frames to avoid dirt getting too stuck at the frame.
It is easy to wipe of with dishwash soap and water.
I think people use silicone spray to stop this. You can spray at the nose and rear attachments rail to saddle shell.
It does not damage anything. So a good test is using silicone spray.
Some saddles rails also creak in in the junction with the seatpost mechanism. You can even spray this with silicone spray.
Some people use silicone spray at titanium frames to avoid dirt getting too stuck at the frame.
It is easy to wipe of with dishwash soap and water.
Bikes:
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
Do a search using the keywords "Specialized, saddle, loose, rail."
I don't use Fizik but I have had several Specialized saddles that developed loose rails. I have seen a loose rail-saddle connection successfully bonded, although I haven't done it personally.
I don't use Fizik but I have had several Specialized saddles that developed loose rails. I have seen a loose rail-saddle connection successfully bonded, although I haven't done it personally.
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Thanks for the replies!
I took the seat off and had a look. The bond on the creaking side has cracked off...
The seat is over 2 years old, so out of warranty (already tried Fizik for this...)
Can anyone who knows their stuff about bonding / epoxy, etc., recommend a good product reapply the bond in this section, and if possible give me an Amazon link with the product in question...
Cheers!
I took the seat off and had a look. The bond on the creaking side has cracked off...
The seat is over 2 years old, so out of warranty (already tried Fizik for this...)
Can anyone who knows their stuff about bonding / epoxy, etc., recommend a good product reapply the bond in this section, and if possible give me an Amazon link with the product in question...
Cheers!
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glepore wrote:JB weld-any hardware store. Get the real stuff, not the 5 minute.
Thanks a lot. That stuff looks pretty hardcore. So, the standard stuff and not the 'Kwik' version they have then.
Will get some and see how it goes.
Appreciated!
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...is this the stuff you mean?
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Another good glue to use is Loctite Black Max 380. Unlike most cyanocrylate glues, this one has quite a bit of flex to it. I have used it as resin to infuse small CF patch repairs and it works great.
Also, this should flow into the joint better than JB Weld and produce a cleaner repair. Just be sure to compress the joint until the glue sets.
Loctite 38004 380 Black Max Instant Adhesive, 3 Gram Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWEQL1U/re ... Oxb1S9M1FJ
Also, this should flow into the joint better than JB Weld and produce a cleaner repair. Just be sure to compress the joint until the glue sets.
Loctite 38004 380 Black Max Instant Adhesive, 3 Gram Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWEQL1U/re ... Oxb1S9M1FJ
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glepore wrote:JB weld-any hardware store. Get the real stuff, not the 5 minute.
Bought some of this on Amazon, and finally got round to fixing the rail.
Mixed the two parts, stirring it with a credit card, and got high off the fumes. Just like the good old days in the toilets of Gatecrasher.
It went on easy, and I spent a while shaping it perfectly, just like the good old days of doing Warhammer miniature conversions with DAS.
Left it to dry and set for 24 hours. Just went out for a ride. Perfect! In fact, it is actually better than the left side now, which flexes and creaks slightly too. Might do that side as well, turning my seat into an ultra-seat.
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Could you please upload a photo of your fix? Thans a lot, George.TheDarkInstall wrote: ↑Fri Aug 19, 2016 11:13 amBought some of this on Amazon, and finally got round to fixing the rail.glepore wrote:JB weld-any hardware store. Get the real stuff, not the 5 minute.
Mixed the two parts, stirring it with a credit card, and got high off the fumes. Just like the good old days in the toilets of Gatecrasher.
It went on easy, and I spent a while shaping it perfectly, just like the good old days of doing Warhammer miniature conversions with DAS.
Left it to dry and set for 24 hours. Just went out for a ride. Perfect! In fact, it is actually better than the left side now, which flexes and creaks slightly too. Might do that side as well, turning my seat into an ultra-seat.
2023 Cervelo S5, size 56, sapphire/ice
Had the same problem on one of my Fizik R1 saddles. It made louds clicks as if the frame was broken, so I was very glad (but also disappointed) it was the saddle.
Didn't like the particular saddle anyway and traded it in for the R1 open which didn't have this problem. I believe the answer is already given here in that it needs some glue/epoxy on where the saddle rail meets the shell.
Didn't like the particular saddle anyway and traded it in for the R1 open which didn't have this problem. I believe the answer is already given here in that it needs some glue/epoxy on where the saddle rail meets the shell.
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