I've now done 6850km on my chain/casette combination. The chain is worn out between 0,75% and 1% according to my chain tool.
Last time I did 14.750km on 1 chain and cassette (through regulary cleaning, mostly riding in dry conditions, using good quality PTFE lube, shifting without pressure).
Can I replace the chain without replacing the cassette or should I continue to wore out both?
I'm running KMC X11EL chain and Campagnolo Chorus cassette (which is expensive, comapred to Shimano 11-speed solutions)
Chain / cassette replacement
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You should replace your chain much more frequently.
Information about when to change is easy to find with google.
Good info you can find here >
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/arti ... ned-46015/
for you the focus on the following section >
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Some riders who don't put a lot of torque into their drive train will wear out the chain rollers before wear becomes apparent on a traditional chain checker. "Think of petite riders, or riders that may be of average size but spin a higher cadence," says Quade. "These riders will wear the roller down (side to side, not OD/ID) and the chain gets sloppy side to side but isn't 'stretched'.”
Murdick backs this. “As chains wear, they develop more lateral flexibility, which comes from friction between the inner and outer plates," he says. "That can affect shifting even before the effects of elongation are felt. In fact, the differences in initial lateral flexibility on a new chain vary greatly between chain manufacturers and that does have an effect on shift quality and durability.”
As for a solution, Quade says it’s not so simple. “These chains can be harder to spot for a home mechanic who isn't putting a new chain on somebody else’s bike on a daily basis," he adds. "This wear can cause some pretty sloppy shifting, which is perhaps the easiest way to spot it. The chain will lag behind shifts, similar to the feeling of dirty cables or a B-tension adjustment that's to far out.”
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Information about when to change is easy to find with google.
Good info you can find here >
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/arti ... ned-46015/
for you the focus on the following section >
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some riders who don't put a lot of torque into their drive train will wear out the chain rollers before wear becomes apparent on a traditional chain checker. "Think of petite riders, or riders that may be of average size but spin a higher cadence," says Quade. "These riders will wear the roller down (side to side, not OD/ID) and the chain gets sloppy side to side but isn't 'stretched'.”
Murdick backs this. “As chains wear, they develop more lateral flexibility, which comes from friction between the inner and outer plates," he says. "That can affect shifting even before the effects of elongation are felt. In fact, the differences in initial lateral flexibility on a new chain vary greatly between chain manufacturers and that does have an effect on shift quality and durability.”
As for a solution, Quade says it’s not so simple. “These chains can be harder to spot for a home mechanic who isn't putting a new chain on somebody else’s bike on a daily basis," he adds. "This wear can cause some pretty sloppy shifting, which is perhaps the easiest way to spot it. The chain will lag behind shifts, similar to the feeling of dirty cables or a B-tension adjustment that's to far out.”
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Last edited by BRM on Sun Jun 12, 2016 12:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The cassette should last around 3-4 chains. I would change the chain at no more than 0.75% worn. Anything higher than 0.75% you run the risk of accelerating the wear of the cassette. When the cassette is worn usually the front chainrings are due for replacements as well.
I have found that a new chain has a lot less friction than an old chain. I love the new chain feel for the first few hundred miles.
I have found that a new chain has a lot less friction than an old chain. I love the new chain feel for the first few hundred miles.
