Weight Weenies

The bars come in different length and width.
my current 44cm 130mm is also available.
They are +7degrees

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I actually spent some time near my local Trek store and was kind enough to get a free fit.

I currently ride a 2010 Time RXR and the headtube stands an extra 2cm higher vs the H1 M9. As I currently do not have any spacers on the RXR, I asked the store to set set the M9 without any spacers as well. All I can say is that it is DEEP and would take some time to get accustomed to. Not that its painfully low but I am assured that my gut would try extremely hard to keep me upright as well as be hated by my back.

Test riding a smaller (size 48) M9, the iso-speed seatpost really works to make the ride much more comfortable while the frame does its job to soak up road buzz.

cyclenutnz wrote:

jeffy wrote:Convention would be that stack measurement would be to the top of headtube (beneath the topcap) - Point A, but i am unsure due to frame design.
Anyone know for sure? Probably makes 15mm or so difference (pretty significant for bike fitting)

Per conversations with Trek engineer last week - frame stack is to point A
If you tell me your bar XY as well as width and reach of your current bars I can calculate how to match your position on a Madone 9

That is absolutely incorrect. The frame stack includes the top spacer/bearing cover as you cannot build the bike without it. I own a Madone 9, work in a Trek dealer and have measured my own and our stock bikes to confirm it. There are other threads about the Madone 9 where I have included photos of the bike with a rule next to the head tube to physically show the stack includes the spacer. The only thing that you should be aware of when choosing your bars is that the reach is quite long for a bar, most of the popular bars we sell have a reach of somewhere around 85mm where as the Madone 9 bar has a reach of 100mm which is quite long for a compact bar.

Slack is correct, I went back to the store today and he called the canadian distributor to make sure we weren't making a mistake on the bike I ordered and the measurement is to the top of B.

Can anyone tell me if the piece at the bottom of the attached picture comes with the Madone 9 series? Does it have a Part number? Can it be ordered as a replacement part from Trek?



The top piece I already know about, it is Trek part number W516121 (601479454976 UPC) and is the tail light mount for the Flash.

My Madone/H2/54 came in this weekend and I was able to take it out for a few rides. The level of comfort is impressive - the ISO system really does work. Handling was great as well. It feels very quick but I can't say if its just me pushing it because its a new bike or the aero really helps.

The only challenge I am having is cable rattling. I will take it back to the dealer and give them the tips from @TomHelly and see if they can quite it down.

@WheresWaldo - both of the seat post adapters in your picture came with the bike.

My friend debuted his new madone during our training camp a few weeks ago. Holy crap that bike rattles like crazy. Sounded like he was mixing cement the whole ride.
Other problem was the handlebar just has one screw for the Garmin mount which kept rotating and eventually stripped out.

Benno wrote:My friend debuted his new madone during our training camp a few weeks ago. Holy crap that bike rattles like crazy. Sounded like he was mixing cement the whole ride.
Other problem was the handlebar just has one screw for the Garmin mount which kept rotating and eventually stripped out.

It has taken a while, but my Madone is now silent. The cable rattle can be eliminated with a bit of trial and error on the foam tubing they supply - too long and it messes up the braking, too short and it rattles. The vector wings can also be silenced with a very thin strip of rubber stuck to the frame where the wings impact. If it is thin enough, it does not affect the wing sitting flush with the frame.

I'd be interested to know how your friend got on with packing his Madone in a bike box (and which bike box he has). There is a section on how to pack in the Madone manual, but the description fills me with concern that re-assembly could be problematic. My LBS (which has some experience, now that they've re-cabled my bike about 10 times to sort out the rattles) thinks that because my stem is slammed, there won't be sufficient slack in the system to fold the bars back over the bike without disconnecting the rear brake. Apparently, this would mean new inners at the least, and new outers in the event you accidentally kink the outer (which is pretty easy they say)... I'm due to go to Spain in a couple of weeks, but erring towards playing it safe and taking my Canyon...

I've travelled a few times with my 9.2 now. First time with ultegra mech and second time with da di2. Not a particularly great case using a polaris eva. I got a fair bit of extra foam with the Madone just to pad the box out some more. Packing and unpacking the bike, the instructions are pretty good. It takes a little extra time than my old bike and everyone was waiting for me to finish building mine on the first day . Removing the wedges from inside the brakes should be sufficient without the need to take them off the cable. It was tight but no major problems. You will probably have to adjust the brakes a bit when bike is built as the wedge may be slightly out when put back in the brakes but they are really easy to adjust on the fly. With the di2 i just disconnected the wires to the bars and also from the battery. You also need to ensure the wings are tidy and that the brake doesnt rub against them but again easy to do. Other than that standard bike build.

Had it now about 9 months. Still can't stop riding it and so glad I swopped out the mech for di2. Fitted the d fly unit also onto the battery also so fully integrated with the garmin for a really tidy fitment. Its fast period wherever Im riding but super comfy. I've just done 3 back to back centurys on it this last Bank Holiday weekend and legs still felt pretty good. It is a noisy bike though and Ill try some of the fixes on here, I fitted the di2 myself so its not as pro as from a bike shop, but Im working on it

My friend drove to the training camp. . He didn't have to pack it in a box/bag this time.

Benno wrote:My friend debuted his new madone during our training camp a few weeks ago. Holy crap that bike rattles like crazy. Sounded like he was mixing cement the whole ride.
Other problem was the handlebar just has one screw for the Garmin mount which kept rotating and eventually stripped out.

If you've a Madone 9 and it's noisy or it rattles. It just means it's been built badly. Probably by people thinking they know better that to follow the instructions. The main cause of rattle is the brake cable in the top tube as it rests directly on the bottom of the tube. There is a supplied length of foam to fit to stop it rattling but in every single case I've seen of rattly bikes, it's either been cut too short or it hasn't been taped in place as you're told to in the instructions and it ends up working it's way down the cable.

plasmaman100 wrote:I've travelled a few times with my 9.2 now. First time with ultegra mech and second time with da di2. Not a particularly great case using a polaris eva. I got a fair bit of extra foam with the Madone just to pad the box out some more. Packing and unpacking the bike, the instructions are pretty good. It takes a little extra time than my old bike and everyone was waiting for me to finish building mine on the first day . Removing the wedges from inside the brakes should be sufficient without the need to take them off the cable. It was tight but no major problems. You will probably have to adjust the brakes a bit when bike is built as the wedge may be slightly out when put back in the brakes but they are really easy to adjust on the fly. With the di2 i just disconnected the wires to the bars and also from the battery. You also need to ensure the wings are tidy and that the brake doesnt rub against them but again easy to do. Other than that standard bike build.

Had it now about 9 months. Still can't stop riding it and so glad I swopped out the mech for di2. Fitted the d fly unit also onto the battery also so fully integrated with the garmin for a really tidy fitment. Its fast period wherever Im riding but super comfy. I've just done 3 back to back centurys on it this last Bank Holiday weekend and legs still felt pretty good. It is a noisy bike though and Ill try some of the fixes on here, I fitted the di2 myself so its not as pro as from a bike shop, but Im working on it

Thanks for this, very helpful. Do you run spacers under your stem? I understand that this creates a bit more slack in the system making the process easier (unfortunately I don't have any spacers). The other option I have is to use a Scicon Aerotech 2 bike bag, which is the only one I've found which doesn't require the bars to be removed. This would obviously solve the issue, but I don't have any previous experience of it and have always used hard cases for peace of mind in the past...

First time a couple of spacers, second time just the single spacer, im now slammed. Yeah the di2 cable measurements as per the manual are pretty tight. The wire to the rear derailleaur on mine based on the manual I felt was a little too short really but I solved this problem when connecting the d fly unit which gave it a little more slack. If the shop have have made it a slick setup to solve the rattles they may have done the cabling as tight as possible hence the potential lack of slack. I'd just give it a try and see by loosening the brake cables. Like you I'm considering investing in a box which doesnt require removal of the bars

plasmaman100 wrote:First time a couple of spacers, second time just the single spacer, im now slammed. Yeah the di2 cable measurements as per the manual are pretty tight. The wire to the rear derailleaur on mine based on the manual I felt was a little too short really but I solved this problem when connecting the d fly unit which gave it a little more slack. If the shop have have made it a slick setup to solve the rattles they may have done the cabling as tight as possible hence the potential lack of slack. I'd just give it a try and see by loosening the brake cables. Like you I'm considering investing in a box which doesnt require removal of the bars

Cheers. Are you aware of any boxes other than the scicon which don't need the bars to be removed? I've looked but couldn't find anything.

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Far from cheap but I suppose its all relative to the price of the bike. Ive a pal who swears by the scicon and reckons it would be spot on for the Madone but theres something about soft cases even with padding which puts me off.