Is it because of internal width or shallow depth?
I'm deciding between H Plus Son Archetype, FLO 30 or Kinlin XR31T.
Which factor play a role of tough tire mounting on wide rim?
Moderator: robbosmans
I've read slew of reports of how it's PITA to mount a tire on wide rim even with tire levers.
Is it because of internal width or shallow depth?
I'm deciding between H Plus Son Archetype, FLO 30 or Kinlin XR31T.
Is it because of internal width or shallow depth?
I'm deciding between H Plus Son Archetype, FLO 30 or Kinlin XR31T.
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.
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The depth of the center is what matters.
I feel that people who have a hard time mounting tires don't know they should get the bead into the inside radius of the wheel.
Rim tape increases the radius, reducing the room to get the beads down inside.
VeloPlugs can help with that problem.
I feel that people who have a hard time mounting tires don't know they should get the bead into the inside radius of the wheel.
Rim tape increases the radius, reducing the room to get the beads down inside.
VeloPlugs can help with that problem.
HED C2 : I never used levers... ever 
easiest rims to mount basically any tire , incl open tubulars ( Michelin, Conti, Vittoria, Schwalbe, Veloflex ).
easiest rims to mount basically any tire , incl open tubulars ( Michelin, Conti, Vittoria, Schwalbe, Veloflex ).Go to Heaven for the climate, Hell for the company.
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
The Kinlins aren't too bad. I did lose quite a bit of spoke tension after mounting and inflating Conti GP4000s2 though. Built them at 120 ds on bhs sl210 hubs. Re tensioned to 110 after mounting and inflating the tire. The ds dropped into the 80s iirc.
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Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
BikeAnon is correct. But I have found that very thin rim tape makes the rim center even "smaller" than veloplugs, and mounting noticeably easier. Rox rim tape is very thin though I don't know of it comes in widths for wide rims. I've also used two layers of 2mil Kapton successfully.
Red arrow is the depth between rim bed and the bead? So, is there a reason manufacturers don't specify the depth?
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder-
istigatrice
- Posts: 849
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
- Location: Australia
I've always found rims that advertise 'tubeless ready' to be a nightmare for regular clincher tyres... not sure if that's got to do with my technique though. Do 'tubeless ready' rims have a larger radius?
Also finding the new wide Mavic Ksyrium rims to be really easy to mount to, tyres just slip on. Way better than their narrower rims.
Also finding the new wide Mavic Ksyrium rims to be really easy to mount to, tyres just slip on. Way better than their narrower rims.
I write the weightweenies blog, hope you like it
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
A lot of good points here but one missed is the fact that a std clincher tire without a reinforced bead should mount to just about any rim effortlessly unless there's an over abundance of rim tape added. The first bead will go on like butter almost always but an installation where there's a lot of tape, shallow rim channel, or a tubeless tire with a reinforced bead like a Hutchinson will be more difficult to mount by nature but if you follow directions to the tee such as starting opposite the valve stem while making sure the tire opposite of where you're working the bead over the rim is squeezed together and centered in the rim channel, it makes life much easier. Oh yeah, don't forget to lube the beads up with a mixture of 75% dish soap to 25% water, just dip a paper towel in there and coat the beads liberally before you start and repeat as you make progress.
I don't know if the op is even considering tubeless but I've learned a lot from doing so and some of the tricks learned can certainly carry over to mounting a tubed clincher. When I first attempted running road tubeless a few years ago my first set of Fusion 3's were so tight to fit on my Ultegra 6700 rims I thought I'd never get it done. The whole process resulted in a bunch of doubt and concern for the next time I had to do it or even worse on the side of the road but once you figure out the proper technique its easy as pie. Now I can mount any tire with no levers quickly and confidently.
My advice would be that if you do buy new wheels that are difficult to mount tires on, go ahead and get the first one mounted, then dismount it to do it again and keep repeating until it becomes easy, find out the proper technique for yourself before you hit the road and you'll have the confidence to change a flat anywhere.
I don't know if the op is even considering tubeless but I've learned a lot from doing so and some of the tricks learned can certainly carry over to mounting a tubed clincher. When I first attempted running road tubeless a few years ago my first set of Fusion 3's were so tight to fit on my Ultegra 6700 rims I thought I'd never get it done. The whole process resulted in a bunch of doubt and concern for the next time I had to do it or even worse on the side of the road but once you figure out the proper technique its easy as pie. Now I can mount any tire with no levers quickly and confidently.
My advice would be that if you do buy new wheels that are difficult to mount tires on, go ahead and get the first one mounted, then dismount it to do it again and keep repeating until it becomes easy, find out the proper technique for yourself before you hit the road and you'll have the confidence to change a flat anywhere.
I've had a LOT of problems with my Flo30 rims mounting and dismounting tires. And I have tried Continental GP4000 S 2, Durano Plus and Continental GP 4seasons. It's always the same. And no matter how I massage the tire and how I place the bead into the inside of the radius of the wheel, nothing helps.
I ended up buying some alloy tire levers to dismount the tire. It works fine, if you are careful not to pince the tube. But remounting the tire is very hard without pinching the tube. The remounting was the real challenge after buying the alloy levers until recently, where I found a new weapon. The BBB easy tire lever. It only helps remounting the last bit of tire, but that's also always the hardest part. It's really easy and because of the design of the lever, you're not risking to pinch the tube. The downside is, that it isn't to handy. But I always bring the tool with me. And the other guys really appreciate to borrow it.
I ended up buying some alloy tire levers to dismount the tire. It works fine, if you are careful not to pince the tube. But remounting the tire is very hard without pinching the tube. The remounting was the real challenge after buying the alloy levers until recently, where I found a new weapon. The BBB easy tire lever. It only helps remounting the last bit of tire, but that's also always the hardest part. It's really easy and because of the design of the lever, you're not risking to pinch the tube. The downside is, that it isn't to handy. But I always bring the tool with me. And the other guys really appreciate to borrow it.
@mpulsiv- it's the depth at the center that is important. You want to push the beads to the center well where the rim is lowest. I get the tire partially mounted so the beads are tight enough to stay in place then go around the rim squeezing the beads into the well. If you do it when the tire is loose the beads will come back out of the well.
@dvdslw- all clincher tires have reinforced beads. Without steel or kevlar in the bead to keep it from stretching it won't stay on the rim.
The best tire levers are wide and flat. These are easier to slip between a tight bead and the rim than the more common narrow and deep levers. Park makes some (TL-4), as does Continental. Park TL-1 is an example of the narrow and deep type. The Conti wide levers are very thin and good in your on the road kit but are a little too weedy for use in the shop; the TL-4s are a bit bulky for the seat bag. I use levers on most tires, for both mounting and dismounting. The trick to not pinching the tube is to use the lever or a finger to stuff the tube up into the rim and to take many small bites of the bead rather than trying to lever it all on in a couple goes.
@dvdslw- all clincher tires have reinforced beads. Without steel or kevlar in the bead to keep it from stretching it won't stay on the rim.
The best tire levers are wide and flat. These are easier to slip between a tight bead and the rim than the more common narrow and deep levers. Park makes some (TL-4), as does Continental. Park TL-1 is an example of the narrow and deep type. The Conti wide levers are very thin and good in your on the road kit but are a little too weedy for use in the shop; the TL-4s are a bit bulky for the seat bag. I use levers on most tires, for both mounting and dismounting. The trick to not pinching the tube is to use the lever or a finger to stuff the tube up into the rim and to take many small bites of the bead rather than trying to lever it all on in a couple goes.
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spookyload
- Posts: 1048
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:47 am
- Location: Albuquerque, NM
dvdslw wrote:A lot of good points here but one missed is the fact that a std clincher tire without a reinforced bead should mount to just about any rim effortlessly unless there's an over abundance of rim tape added. The first bead will go on like butter almost always but an installation where there's a lot of tape, shallow rim channel, or a tubeless tire with a reinforced bead like a Hutchinson will be more difficult to mount by nature but if you follow directions to the tee such as starting opposite the valve stem while making sure the tire opposite of where you're working the bead over the rim is squeezed together and centered in the rim channel, it makes life much easier. Oh yeah, don't forget to lube the beads up with a mixture of 75% dish soap to 25% water, just dip a paper towel in there and coat the beads liberally before you start and repeat as you make progress.
Soapy water does in fact help a tight bead over the rim without a lever. I personally used a few drops of dish soap with about a cup of water. I keep a spray bottle of it for mounting tubeless MTB tires, but a finicky road tire will get it too. Just about every carbon rim I have has had a sticker that says not to use metal tire levers btw. Even aluminum rims will scar (though not damage) from steel tire levers.
