Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!
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pyrahna
- Posts: 150
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by pyrahna on Mon Oct 23, 2017 2:52 pm
IrrelevantD wrote:morganb wrote:I had one of the gold ano 2x models and the headset was notchy after a month. My friend got the Specialized Edition 2x and they warrantied his headset after 3 or 4 weeks because it was nearly seized. Maybe they have fixed it in the more recent ones or made a change from the 1x to 2x but there were issues for sure.
I'm curious, do you guys live in a particularly wet or humid area? I've been through a couple of headsets on my other bikes, but rarely shorter than 18 or so months (8~10k miles). My rides are usually pre-dawn in the Dallas area when it's really humid and muggy. I also do not shy away from riding in the wet unless there's ice on the ground or lightning in the skys, so I can be really hard on equipment. I'd be very surprised to see a headset go out after only a few months. I really hate saying this, but my initial gut reaction was that something was missing like maybe the plastic ring that mvcap referenced and there's moisture getting in there somehow.
For the record I live in Savannah, Ga, do not fear the rain, ride it on the trainer indoors a bunch, and sweat battery acid. Haven't had a problem in 18 months of owning the 1st one, or the 1st month of owning a 2nd additional one.
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morganb
- Posts: 732
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by morganb on Mon Oct 23, 2017 4:53 pm
IrrelevantD wrote:morganb wrote:I had one of the gold ano 2x models and the headset was notchy after a month. My friend got the Specialized Edition 2x and they warrantied his headset after 3 or 4 weeks because it was nearly seized. Maybe they have fixed it in the more recent ones or made a change from the 1x to 2x but there were issues for sure.
I'm curious, do you guys live in a particularly wet or humid area? I've been through a couple of headsets on my other bikes, but rarely shorter than 18 or so months (8~10k miles). My rides are usually pre-dawn in the Dallas area when it's really humid and muggy. I also do not shy away from riding in the wet unless there's ice on the ground or lightning in the skys, so I can be really hard on equipment. I'd be very surprised to see a headset go out after only a few months. I really hate saying this, but my initial gut reaction was that something was missing like maybe the plastic ring that mvcap referenced and there's moisture getting in there somehow.
Pittsburgh, so yes it rains half of the days here. But still both of us replaced the bearings with more FSA/Spec ones and the second set were fine and lasted. I traded the gold Allez to my friend this spring and he never had any issues with the second one, just wanted to see if there were other options out there since I had trouble with the stock ones.
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morganb
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by morganb on Mon Oct 23, 2017 4:58 pm
On a completely unrelated note, does anyone know if you can run linked brake housing through the top tube? I figure that would help mitigate some of the impact of having to run full length housing for the rear brake.
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IrrelevantD
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- Location: Near DFW Airport
by IrrelevantD on Mon Oct 23, 2017 6:27 pm
morganb wrote:On a completely unrelated note, does anyone know if you can run linked brake housing through the top tube? I figure that would help mitigate some of the impact of having to run full length housing for the rear brake.
I saw someone post somewhere, and I don't know where I saw it, that trying to run linked housing was problematic at best, IE: not possible. That being said, I'm using standard Shimano housing with 6800 Ultegra brakes and I'm having no issues with my brakes. Unless you are talking about weight, not sure what "impact" you are referring to.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
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kfink117
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by kfink117 on Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:02 pm
IrrelevantD wrote:morganb wrote:On a completely unrelated note, does anyone know if you can run linked brake housing through the top tube? I figure that would help mitigate some of the impact of having to run full length housing for the rear brake.
I saw someone post somewhere, and I don't know where I saw it, that trying to run linked housing was problematic at best, IE: not possible. That being said, I'm using standard Shimano housing with 6800 Ultegra brakes and I'm having no issues with my brakes. Unless you are talking about weight, not sure what "impact" you are referring to.
I tried too. 'Problematic at best' is accurate.
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morganb
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by morganb on Mon Oct 23, 2017 10:32 pm
IrrelevantD wrote:morganb wrote:On a completely unrelated note, does anyone know if you can run linked brake housing through the top tube? I figure that would help mitigate some of the impact of having to run full length housing for the rear brake.
I saw someone post somewhere, and I don't know where I saw it, that trying to run linked housing was problematic at best, IE: not possible. That being said, I'm using standard Shimano housing with 6800 Ultegra brakes and I'm having no issues with my brakes. Unless you are talking about weight, not sure what "impact" you are referring to.
I find full length housing tends to amplifying the feel difference between the front and rear brake more because there is 5x more housing to compress. Its not unusable by any means but I prefer the feel of bikes that run minimal housing whether external or with cable stops internal.
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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD on Mon Oct 23, 2017 10:50 pm
morganb wrote:I find full length housing tends to amplifying the feel difference between the front and rear brake more because there is 5x more housing to compress. Its not unusable by any means but I prefer the feel of bikes that run minimal housing whether external or with cable stops internal.
Fair enough. Personally, I find the rear brake to be more responsive and a better feel than on my similarly equipped '05 S-Works Tarmac (6800 mechanical) which is open under the top tube, but that could be due to older cable/housing/pads on the Tarmac.
[not even going to discuss the difference between this and the Giant Propel it replaced. Two words... v-brakes suck]
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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morganb
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by morganb on Fri Nov 03, 2017 11:43 pm
Routed all the Di2 wires for my bike this evening, but forgot to buy a chain at the shop so I'm going to wait until tomorrow to finish it. I ended up using a dremel on the brake stop to run the wire along the rear brake housing and then through the headtube.
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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD on Sat Nov 04, 2017 3:39 pm
morganb wrote:I ended up using a dremel on the brake stop to run the wire along the rear brake housing and then through the headtube.
Not sure I follow what you did on this one. Any chance you can post some pictures?
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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morganb
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by morganb on Sun Nov 05, 2017 12:22 am
IrrelevantD wrote:morganb wrote:I ended up using a dremel on the brake stop to run the wire along the rear brake housing and then through the headtube.
Not sure I follow what you did on this one. Any chance you can post some pictures?
Will do tomorrow, and post some better pics of the bike. Once I put some heat shrink around it the only exposed cables should be at the derailleurs. Got the first test ride in today with a surprise climb of Sycamore Ave (12%) which is currently torn up and exposed cobbles and dirt. Need to wrap the bars once I am set on the sprint shifter positions and it should be complete.
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moock
- Posts: 269
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by moock on Sun Nov 05, 2017 11:53 pm
Delorre wrote:moock wrote:
Here is a Pic of my 17' Allez Sprint. Hope you like it.
What crankset is that? Nice and agressive bike btw
standart Praxis Alba( i think !?) which came with the bike.
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morganb
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by morganb on Tue Nov 07, 2017 2:56 am
Its hard to see without me removing the cable stop, but I basically dremeled a slot on the back side of the stop down to the point that it flattens out near the bolt, then I drilled a hole just big enough for a Di2 cable (not the end) and slid it in place. I then pushed the brake housing through, so I can't remove the Di2 cable without removing the brake housing, but it looks much cleaner.