BB 86-4130 Bearings

[HeluvaSkier]

hey everyone,



one question i have is with the raceface, which seems the best solution from what i can find, but that inner sleeve seems too long for a bb86 shell... or is it telescoping and thus able to shrink down to fit the narrower shell?

Unsure on Raceface but some of the e*thirteen sleeves I've seen have been telescoping. That said, I've had zero issues with installing e*thirteen products (both 4130 and BSA for 30mm spindles) without the sleeve, so I wouldn't let that be a deal-breaker.

[ms6073]

so, i will be running Quarq Dzero Aluminum Chassis with a 30mm spindle on a bb86 frame...

While I am not familiar with the Quarq Dzero, if it is a true BB30 crank, then just like those of us with SRM Hollowgram powermeter's, trying to mix a BB30 powermeter with a BB86 frameset is a non-starter.

[AZR3]

Pretty sure all the new quarq BB30 power meters have the longer spindle, I don't think they make a true BB30 length spindle anymore

[octave]

so, i will be running Quarq Dzero Aluminum Chassis with a 30mm spindle on a bb86 frame...

While I am not familiar with the Quarq Dzero, if it is a true BB30 crank, then just like those of us with SRM Hollowgram powermeter's, trying to mix a BB30 powermeter with a BB86 frameset is a non-starter.

hey there,


yeah the quarq website says the bb30 version of the Aluminum chassis is actually not *just* bb30, but a 30mm spindle long enough to work on anything except bb386 and bbRight... something about the shell being extra wide and not playing well with the Aluminum chassis' geometry? but, the carbon chassis works for bb386 and bbRight... i called them just to be sure and was told that using something like Rotor's 4130 would be just fine with the DZero Alumimum on a bb86 frame.

in any case, i think i will either try the e*thirteen 4130 or the raceface, whichever i can find cheaper, and not worry about the inner sleeve.

thanks !

o

[griffith500]

I would absolutely try to avoid a PF4130 combination. Had this setup initially on my Bianchi Specialissima with a 30mm Quarq Dzero crankset and it was impossible to get it running trouble free with either a Rotor or a Ceramicspeed BB.

The problem is that you only have 11 mm for the bearings which makes it very difficult for any BB manufacturer to produce a good bracket. If your frame has just the slightest tolerance you will notice...

In the end I changed to a 24mm GXP Dzero crank and Ceramicspeed BB; this runs trouble free since 3000 Km now. Did not notice any difference in stiffness between the 30mm and the 24mm crank, weight is almost identical too.

See here for the creaking PF4130:
https://youtu.be/AoAn2r0-tTE

[octave]

i am going to try the Enduro 4130 bearings, as i don't have the cash to splash out for a new Quarq. if it really sucks, i will try and sell it and switch to a GXP.

i will keep you all posted!

[ironman1]

Has anyone had any actual experience with the Kogel 4130 bearings ? When they first came out they advertised and I e-mailed to confirm they had only 1 row of bearings with larger balls. Wish I had a set and the money to waste to take a set apart and see how they did that. THM had always had very high quality products and I have used their 8606 bearings witch were excellent but I doubt they make their own bearings and wondered who makes them for THM and how their4130 bearings hold up ?

[mrlobber]

I would absolutely try to avoid a PF4130 combination. Had this setup initially on my Bianchi Specialissima with a 30mm Quarq Dzero crankset and it was impossible to get it running trouble free with either a Rotor or a Ceramicspeed BB.

The problem is that you only have 11 mm for the bearings which makes it very difficult for any BB manufacturer to produce a good bracket. If your frame has just the slightest tolerance you will notice...

In the end I changed to a 24mm GXP Dzero crank and Ceramicspeed BB; this runs trouble free since 3000 Km now. Did not notice any difference in stiffness between the 30mm and the 24mm crank, weight is almost identical too.

I do run 4130 on 2 bikes (both Scotts: Addict & Plasma), both are creak free. Initially the Addict creaked (with FSA KForce BB386 cranks), but it turned out a crank mounting problem, which I solved and it has been creak free since then.

[Attermann]

I run a praxis chain set on my bb86 bike, it has an axle that has a step down to 28 mm on the nds side, I runs absolutely perfect as my foul weather bike, no problem whatsoever.

[KCookie]

How about this one. Heard good reports. Will get one myself when i need to upgrade. Great weight at 66g.

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[mrlobber]

KCookie, C-Bear is cheaper and, I'd guess, at least as good if not better.
https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/pres ... 386392-thm
Especially for European customers.

[Fixie82]

Not sure who is recommending RaceFace BB's, they are woeful. The sleeve is not adjustable and is for use in wider MTB BB shells. 4130 is not something to avoid, you just need to make sure your installation is spot on. Right now the best bang for the buck for me is the Hope 4130. Cheap, high quality and runs smooth. More than can be said for RaceFace. I would run Rotor before I went back to ANY RaceFace BB.

[MAsshole]

Anyone run the Kogels yet?

[ironman1]

Curious on the Kogels also ??

[Stitchking]

I'm not saying they're not good bearings, It's just a price I could never justify, my bike isn't "cheap" but it's certainly built within a budget. I think my used cranks cost about the same as those bearings.

Sorry, I didn't mean to question your pricing, just my ability to afford them

Yes I understand I also admit that good steel bearings can reduce the gap between ceramic and steel and I like your solution.

But let me know, the Lightning crank is expensive, like $700 ? My idea is to have components in the same line of performance and price.
It'd not make sense to use ceramic 41/30 at $250 on a Rotor 3D30 at $350. In that case, I'd buy 3d24 at $300 + 41/24 ceramic bearings (around $150), that's by far a better combo in terms of performance/price.

The last thing is that the highest velocity you have, the more you'll save with using ceramic bearings. So, strong athletes save more watts than the others with using aero wheels... but on bearings, 2 people riding at the same velocity, one at 200W and the other at 400W, they will save the same amount of watts.
That's why the gain in % is more impressive at a low wattage than at a high wattage.
Let's buy good ceramic bearings instead of aero wheels if you start training.

Are you trying to shill your BB's here on WW's? Aside from irrelevancy due to weight savings, I'm trying to make sense of what you write because you constantly contradict yourself and are wrong on many levels...from equating spin tests to actual reduction in riding friction to watts saved to increased bearing longevity after rides in the rain to equating the cost of a BB relative to the cost of a given crank. To me you are full of BS and your bearings are stupid expensive.
There isn't a single watt difference between your bearings and properly set up BB30 with ABEC-3 bearings at $7 each. A fool and his money. The only thing you wrote that is accurate is your tests are far from scientific and that is a fact.

To expose your BS as bogus, for example, show me the scientific test that proves what you wrote that "2 people riding at the same velocity, one at 200W and the other at 400W...that premise is almost impossible btw...they will save the same kind of watts. I probably have never read a greater fabrication on the internet. Lets see your test data to support this bogus claim. This is flawed on so many different levels.
Quit writing what you have no idea what you are talking about or you will be called out on it.

She

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