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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:54 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:03 am
Posts: 292
From my understanding they are sold in a set shift levers and the caliber pre bleed ready to use, like mtb

Which brings me to ask
1) Most modern road frames use internal cabling. Does the wrench need to dissemble the hose, route it through the frame and adjust the hose length and then re bleed ?

2) I doubt the frame internal brake cable holes are big enough to accommodate the hose cable?

3) Are there any brands that do separate brake cable stops for cable/hydro brakes? just like gear Di2/ Mech

It would be so ugly to cable the hose to the frame if 1) and 2) is not possible.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 4:17 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 2:19 pm
Posts: 662
Just get a steel frame and drill the appropriate holes, run the hoses, bleed, and use marine goop to seal up the frame when done...

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Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 4:17 pm 

PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:15 am 

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:41 pm
Posts: 763
Location: Uppsala, Sweden
yes you have to take it apart and probably bleed it if you are going to thread it three the frame. if the frame has hosing al the way, the hydraulic hose will go in al the way, the hydraulic hose has the same or smaller diameter as a brake hose for mechanical brakes

PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:27 am 

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 1:06 pm
Posts: 1094
For SRAM (comes with a red double ended solid barb that brake fluid can't flow through)
- disconnect hose from caliper
- cut off barb/banjo
- thread in red double ended solid barb. This has a hole in it you can tie some fishing line/string.
- pass string through frame (if frame is new it probably has a bit of liner to aid this. if frame is used attach it to the old cable and pull it all through in one go)

If you do the next steps carefully without losing fluid you shouldn't have to bleed. That's probably 4 out of 5 times for me. Figure out a process that works for you.

- cut hose to length
- install new banjo/barb
- reconnect caliper

Shimano generally comes in pieces. STI lever, hose, caliper, fluid. So you have risk of spilling fluid in the frame as you install the hose. But you definitely need to bleed it after installation. If it's a pre-assembled/bled brake then follow the same process as for SRAM.

Frames that are designed for full outer won't have an issue as the hydro line is the same diameter as cable outer.

Frames that have cable stops in the frame and run on inner cable through can be a bigger issue. Usually those cable stops are removable so I take them out, drill them to allow the hydro line to pass through then reinstall. If you ever want to reinstall a cable brake you can either run full outer or purchase new cable stops from the frame manufacturer which are just a few pieces of aluminium ~$20.

If the frame as cable stops moulded directly into the frame then you have to heavily consider the suitability of a hydro brake. I wouldn't personally drill out my own frame...and if I were doing it for someone else I'd get written/signed consent with full liability on the owner of the frame as you don't know what you'll encounter once you take a drill/file/dremel to the frame.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:32 am 
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 8:23 pm
Posts: 98
You have to cut, route, reattach, and rebleed. You need to cut the excess cable anyway.

S P L I T: 2010 Meivici: 14.4 lbs | 2003 Odile: 19 lbs | Hunter Cycles Cyclocross: 17 lbs | 2013 Dundee Cycles Jewell 29er: 17 lbs

Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:32 am 

PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 11:12 pm 
in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 3260
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
As above but if the frame has stops like my wifes did you need to make a few alterations with a file to get everything to fit.


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