The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Depends on how you price your time
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The only way the rim can move sideways is if the hub is not symmetric. It is not something wrong with the rim unless us it is very asymmetric. You notice that. This happens on rear wheels. You have to account for it.
If the rim has moved tension will be lower on one side. So correct and hi for a ride.
If the rim has moved tension will be lower on one side. So correct and hi for a ride.
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No, 55 or 65mm is too deep for my usage. I ride flats and many steep climbs, so need some allround rims. At now, hesitate between building with Nextie 45mm and DT swiss components and Fulcrum quattro carbon.
Nextie have a modern parametres ( wider, U - shape ). Fulcrum is conservative brand ( narrover, not U-shape ), but I am sure fulcrums have a good ride feel - roll well and very stiff.
Nextie have a modern parametres ( wider, U - shape ). Fulcrum is conservative brand ( narrover, not U-shape ), but I am sure fulcrums have a good ride feel - roll well and very stiff.
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why is 55mm to deep. That itself is faulty logic. 55mm deep rims climb just fine. 45-55mm deep u shaped rims are ideal for nearly all rides. The only times I would not use them is when there are long decent where lots of braking is required. But that not the depth just the fact they are carbon.
U shape rims are simply better there is no excuse not to use them.
U shape rims are simply better there is no excuse not to use them.
I'm a light rider, who's just picked up a Colnage C-RS fitted with Shimano WH-RS010. I know these are really basic! Looking for some wheels around 1400 gram range in the £300 to £400 category (UK), can spend more if required. What's the general opinion on areo rims versus normal now the weights have come down a bit? Are any budget carbon fibre rims worth bothering with? I'm semi obsessed with weight so want something light
Thanks all, Tim
Thanks all, Tim
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Take a Kinlin xr22t 24h/28h and bitex RAF/rar12 hubs laced up with sapim lasers pillar 1422 spokes or the cc rays I normally use and you will have a1440g wheelset that is quite stiff.
Lighter clinchers are of course possible but compromises start to be made and with lighter and more pricey rims or lighter narrower rims like the Kinlin xr220, or lower spoke counts that don't suit everyone you get the idea.
Forget carbon at this price point.
One wheelset that could work is using the velocity quill rim and the bitex raf10/RAF 9 hubs which are 260g / pair.
You will have wheels that weigh around 1380g in 20F/24R spoke count with sapim lasers or pillar 1422 spokes but a compromise on bearing life has just been made. See what I mean. For proper light your budget has to go up.
Lighter clinchers are of course possible but compromises start to be made and with lighter and more pricey rims or lighter narrower rims like the Kinlin xr220, or lower spoke counts that don't suit everyone you get the idea.
Forget carbon at this price point.
One wheelset that could work is using the velocity quill rim and the bitex raf10/RAF 9 hubs which are 260g / pair.
You will have wheels that weigh around 1380g in 20F/24R spoke count with sapim lasers or pillar 1422 spokes but a compromise on bearing life has just been made. See what I mean. For proper light your budget has to go up.
I have found the nipples, DT Swiss hidden pro lock
Do I use grease or oil on the spokes before I turn the nipples on them? I have got Copper grease, cyclon assambly paste, Shimano bearing grease, WD40
And do I have to grease the head of the nipple where it touches the rim?
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No. Assembly paste has gritty fibers in it and is for mating carbon parts to reduce torque value and prevent slippage. Copper Grease is known as "Anti-Seize" in other parts of the world. DO NOT use assembly paste.
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