Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3 TLR

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clipsed
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:48 pm

by clipsed

Hi All,

This is in reference to Bontragers new "Pro" (cheaper) version, not the top of the range Aeolus 3 TLR

I have the option of buying a Brand new Pro 3 TLR or Zipp 404 firecrest (with v9 hub, 2016). I have used the Zipp's before, and had no real issue with them - but i was considering something lighter and shallower.

I know exactly how the Zipps braking feels, which i don't mind - not bad! However i can't find ANYTHING online about these new bontrager wheels.

Does anyone have any real world experiences with these new wheels? Wet and Dry braking? I assume the Dry is fine - interested in wet more! thanks

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wheelbuilder
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by wheelbuilder

No experience to help you really, but my old shop sold these. I personally ride the top end Aeolus 3's, and think they are fantastic wheels. The Aeolus Pro's were a pretty popular wheel. They have exact same shape as the Aeolus, with a more defined/textured brake track. They are super heavy though, and the hubs are just ok.
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clipsed
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:48 pm

by clipsed

wheelbuilder wrote:No experience to help you really, but my old shop sold these. I personally ride the top end Aeolus 3's, and think they are fantastic wheels. The Aeolus Pro's were a pretty popular wheel. They have exact same shape as the Aeolus, with a more defined/textured brake track. They are super heavy though, and the hubs are just ok.


Oh cool, how do you find these wheels in terms of braking? I couldn't quite find anything online about them, but they seem to have a slightly textured braking surface. With black prince pads, how would they fair vs. a set of zipps? I assume better!

I have a brand new pair of ENVE 4.5's with CK45 that i am getting rid of, it's my second warranty replacement on these wheels and i just keep busting spokes.

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wheelbuilder
Posts: 1213
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by wheelbuilder

Can't help with that. I've not ridden the Aeolus Pro's. I would guess that they have a little more bite and probably perform a little better than the Regular Aeolus. Mine are good in the dry but not exceptional by any means. Similar to all the others with smooth, non-dedicated brake track. I use cork pads on mine because appearance is super important to me, and the brake track remains pristine. I have found that the black prince mar up the carbon surface, but I do use those in the mist/rain. I then re install the cork and it will clean up the brake track back to new in a couple of weeks. Trek, while making some pretty crappy house brand products, does the Aeolus wheels right. I imagine they put quite a bit of thought into the Pro's you are considering. They are priced right to be sure, and you will backed by a huge company that stands behind their stuff for the most part. I would get them. Just don't expect them to be light.

edit to add.......we had a customer who ordered these when they first became available. He was so unbelievably excited to be getting on a pair of carbon wheels. It was his dream and you could just feel his anticipation. When they came in he was absolutely devastated that they were a couple of hundred grams heavier than his Pacenti and King wheels. Like shattered his dreams devastated. It was painful to watch.
Never cheer before you know who is winning

clipsed
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:48 pm

by clipsed

wheelbuilder wrote:Can't help with that. I've not ridden the Aeolus Pro's. I would guess that they have a little more bite and probably perform a little better than the Regular Aeolus. Mine are good in the dry but not exceptional by any means. Similar to all the others with smooth, non-dedicated brake track. I use cork pads on mine because appearance is super important to me, and the brake track remains pristine. I have found that the black prince mar up the carbon surface, but I do use those in the mist/rain. I then re install the cork and it will clean up the brake track back to new in a couple of weeks. Trek, while making some pretty crappy house brand products, does the Aeolus wheels right. I imagine they put quite a bit of thought into the Pro's you are considering. They are priced right to be sure, and you will backed by a huge company that stands behind their stuff for the most part. I would get them. Just don't expect them to be light.

edit to add.......we had a customer who ordered these when they first became available. He was so unbelievably excited to be getting on a pair of carbon wheels. It was his dream and you could just feel his anticipation. When they came in he was absolutely devastated that they were a couple of hundred grams heavier than his Pacenti and King wheels. Like shattered his dreams devastated. It was painful to watch.


haha thanks for the long reply, i actually meant how are the Aeolus D3, not the pro, as there's a second hand pair of Aeolus 5 D3 TLR wheels (not the pro) for sale too, but i also don't know anything about those!

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wheelbuilder
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by wheelbuilder

They brake fine for me, and I use them as my only wheelset. Panic stops, long descents, and latex tubes are no problem at all. Tubeless set-up is really easy with the rim strip and they are light and stiff. DT Aerolites are trouble free, and the Alpina Hex nipples are easy to turn either via spoke wrench externally, or 5.5 nut driver internally. Hubs are carbon shelled DT 180's with great performance and engagement. Easy to service. I have 6,000 miles on mine with no external/internal or cosmetic damage, and the bearings are still smooth and tight. I service the freehub every six months. Really nice wheels. If you are used to carbon wheels, braking won't be a problem.
Never cheer before you know who is winning

clipsed
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Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:48 pm

by clipsed

How was the wet weather braking? Tried zipps?

izza
Posts: 136
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2011 9:03 pm

by izza

I went from Enve 4.5’s to 5 D3 TLR’s. Braking on latter is very comparable if not quieter and slightly better compared to Enve in both wet and dry IF you use Black Prince pads.

The cork pads were silent and great in the dry but ineffectual in the wet.


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spartan
Posts: 1756
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 2:52 am

by spartan

1200 USD wheelset matches a enve at 3K . enve's business model not going to work anymore
Current Rides:

2023 Tarmac SL7 Di2 9270
ex 2019 S-works SL6
ex 2018 Trek Madone SLR Disc
ex 2016 Giant TCRAdvanced Sl
ex 2012 Trek Madone7

MisterNoChain
Posts: 275
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 9:29 pm

by MisterNoChain

I have the aeolus 3's in my trek emonda sl 6 pro but the braking on them is giving me headaches.
In the beginning it was just fine, but over time the brake pads start to squeak and I lost a lot of power. If I use some sandpaper on the pads the braking performance is almost back to normal, but after a few rides it's back to squaeky and bad braking. I've used the old swiss stop pads I used on my Farsports, same story after a few rides.
I spike to someone on an event with the same bike as i and he had the same problem.

It's pretty disappointing these wheels perform worse then my Chinese ones.

You see the pads get all shiny after some time, losing the ability to grip well. Image

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FIJIGabe
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Location: The Lone Star State

by FIJIGabe

Are you toeing-in the pads? The squeaking is usually coming from pad vibration, which toe-in addresses. Make sure the trailing edge of the pad contacts the wheel, first (the part facing the front of the bike). I usually put a business card under the leading edge of the brake pad, and that provides me with enough toe-in to avoid vibration.

Also, use a little acetone and give the brake tracks a good, thorough cleaning. It's amazing what comes off with a little elbow grease!

MisterNoChain
Posts: 275
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 9:29 pm

by MisterNoChain

Toeing-in the pads really helped for the braking performance, it's quite a bit better now. The front brake is excellent, the rear is still a bit squeaky from time to time but after 3 weeks i didnt lose any stopping power :thumbup:

alcatraz
Posts: 4064
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

Try a more heat resistant pad. I think the fading comes from glazing the pads by overheating them. On textured brake tracks it's less of a problem as it's automatically "sanded" off by the wheel.

Keep the grooves in the pads clear too.

And don't drag your brakes. Hard braking, then let go, repeat.

If your wheels are new you can expect less glazing when the brake surface has broken in and started exposing some fibers. Maybe not on all wheels but on my wheels the seemingly uncoated brake surface did stop to glaze the pads after a while, without much difference in looks.

by Weenie


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