25mm Tubeless Tyres

[Lewn777]

Hello, I came across this thread whilst searching tubeless road tyres. I normally race on GP4000ii, and had been used 4 seasons for the winter training months. But after the purchase of some new tubeless wheels I thought I would give tubeless a go. First I tried Pro Ones, these seem to puncture often and cut up and get sliced. To a point where an inner tube was the only way to continue using them. However they do not have a puncture resistant band under the rubber, so with an inner tube they puncture even more often, so took them off.

I then researched IRC formula Pro tyres, I decided to go with the x-guard, so this seemed to be an RBCC but with a puncture resistant belt. My thinking being that I could use an inner tube if they got sliced.

They however are the slowest tyres I have ever rode, did a TT on them and was 1min slower at the same power.

So I decided to do a rolling resistance test on my rollers, at the same speed the IRC's required 30watts more than the GP4000. This is the same air pressure same everything other than the tyres.

Now I do think the rollers amplify the value due to the tyre deflecting more, but they are so much slower even on the road.

So now the question is what do I buy instead, would the IRC RBCC or X-light be any faster really, no marketing bullsh*t.

What model were "Team on Form" using in racing or "NIPPO VINI FANTINI"?

My experiences echo yours. I used Conti GP4000S2 (summer) and 4 seasons for training. I also found Schwalbe Pro Ones to cut up and puncture terribly. Total waste of money for me.

I wanted to try Panaracer Race A Evo tubeless, but they aren't available where I live, could have bought online and have them sent from another country, but needed something quickly. So I bought Panaracer Race D Evo (tube), I have found them to be every bit as durable as Conti four seasons and better handling. Also it's easy to see where you have picked up glass in the tread as they are a slick. They also seem to love my DT Swiss rims and ping when they are inflated like a tubeless tires. Loving them.

So I'm going to try Panaracer Race A Evo tubeless and run them with orange sealant in the spring. Panaracer seem often overlooked but are actually some of the best tires around.

[dvq]

I don't think it's a coincidence that two people who know each other, who are both honestly very familiar and proficient with tubeless, who bought different models of IRC's new file tread tires...that we both got the exact same unsealable split at the top of the bead.

LOL .... I'll be honest here .... I've searched the internet far and wide and in all languages using google translate .... IRC are a reputable tyre manufacturer (motorbike/bike tyres etc) and after searching the world wide web .... only your (and your mates) IRC tyres have crap reviews ... (no one else on the world wide web)

and you both know each other well

so ..... I smell a rat .... but I will leave it at that

I don’t like controversy but there’s no need to get angry about this. I mount all my tubeless tires by hand, the IRC X-Guard is the only tubeless tire that has ever failed me. I’m not trying to destroy reputations just tell my experience. The guys at the IRC tent at sea otter seemed like genuinely nice guys trying to do business. Long cut was at the bead seam and long, I’ve got pictures. Failure happened with very few miles. As for reviews regarding irc tires not being indexed and searchable on the web, consider these indexed.

[TobinHatesYou]

So I'm going to try Panaracer Race A Evo tubeless and run them with orange sealant in the spring. Panaracer seem often overlooked but are actually some of the best tires around.

I have a 25mm set in my queue along with 25mm Hutchinson Fusion 5 Galactik 11Storm in both TLR and "Tubeless," 28mm Fusion 5 Performance 11Storm in TLR, 28mm Mavic Yksion Pro UST, Bontrager R3 Tubeless.

The Panaracers are by far the heaviest at around 330g per tire. The lightest are the 25mm Galactik TLRs at 220g (eyebrow raising.) Most of the other tires are around 290g. I have high hopes for the Panaracers as a durable NorCal winter tire, but have no expectations for its rolling resistance, grip or ride quality.

[bm0p700f]

I dont see it as fake news THY. I would still like to see the tyre to give it IRC the next time I see them which wont be long. Any potential defect however unlikely should be looked into.

I refer to the roadlite even though it is an older tyre because it has low rolling resistance (tested) In fact it is lower than the formula pro light which is odd but a fair bit heavier.

The hutchinson galatik TLR is one I will have to try. maybe they have worked out how to make a light tubeless tyre reliable, maybe not. one way to find out.

[Lewn777]

So I'm going to try Panaracer Race A Evo tubeless and run them with orange sealant in the spring. Panaracer seem often overlooked but are actually some of the best tires around.

I have a 25mm set in my queue along with 25mm Hutchinson Fusion 5 Galactik 11Storm in both TLR and "Tubeless," 28mm Fusion 5 Performance 11Storm in TLR, 28mm Mavic Yksion Pro UST, Bontrager R3 Tubeless.

The Panaracers are by far the heaviest at around 330g per tire. The lightest are the 25mm Galactik TLRs at 220g (eyebrow raising.) Most of the other tires are around 290g. I have high hopes for the Panaracers as a durable NorCal winter tire, but have no expectations for its rolling resistance, grip or ride quality.

Mike Hall (RIP) used the Panaracer Race A Evo tubeless for the Indian-Pacific wheel race and Mark Beaumont used the Race D Evo for his round the world record breaking ride so robustness would seem to be very good. From experience with the Race D Evo I have high expectations for the Race A's rolling resistance, grip and ride quality.

330 grams is a heavy tire, but I think the pay off it worth it for a tire that seems over-engineered.

[IrrelevantD]

I wanted to try Panaracer Race A Evo tubeless, but they aren't available where I live, could have bought online and have them sent from another country, but needed something quickly. So I bought Panaracer Race D Evo (tube), I have found them to be every bit as durable as Conti four seasons and better handling. Also it's easy to see where you have picked up glass in the tread as they are a slick. They also seem to love my DT Swiss rims and ping when they are inflated like a tubeless tires. Loving them.

So I'm going to try Panaracer Race A Evo tubeless and run them with orange sealant in the spring. Panaracer seem often overlooked but are actually some of the best tires around.

I'm running the A's on one of my wheel sets and absolutely love them. Quickly becoming my favorites with the Maxis padrone's being my second. I still want to try the IRCs and haven't ruled out trying Hutchinson again (gave up on them due to problems with the Fusion 3 25c being very puncture prone compared to the 23c), but as for now, the Panaracers stay on my good wheels.

[Sanjay]

Does anyone know the main differences between Hutchinson Fusion 5's 'Tubeless' and 'Tubeless Ready'? I know the TR version is lighter, but are there any other differences? I have the TR versions of the Galactik (233g) and the All Season (257g) but didn't realise there were these different versions when I bought them.

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[IrrelevantD]

Does anyone know the main differences between Hutchinson Fusion 5's 'Tubeless' and 'Tubeless Ready'? I know the TR version is lighter, but are there any other differences? I have the TR versions of the Galactik (233g) and the All Season (257g) but didn't realise there were these different versions when I bought them.

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So this is just a guess, but when they first released a 25c version of the Fusion (I believe that was the 3), I recall it was actually lighter than the 23c. The difference was that the 23c was still the casing from the previous generation and was fully tubeless in that the tire itself would hold air without sealant (so long as you didn't have air loss at the rim/bead interface or valve stem). The 25c had a thinner casing, and I believe was very similar construction to the Intensive (25c and 28c) but with different tread. I believe it required sealant as it would leak air out the sidewalls without it. Personally I had a lot of puncture problems with the 25c Fusion and the Intensive when they first came out. Enough so that I stopped buying Hutchinson tires. If you are seeing a weight difference in the same tire and one is labeled Tubeless, the other Tubeless ready, it could be that one has a heavier, more air tight casing.

Now, between the Galactik and the All Season, if I recall correctly, the All Season has more puncture protection and possible thicker, more durable tread. I've been looking into the Hutchinson tires again now that they have so many new models out and that's just going off of memory, best bet would be to look at Hutchinson's website.

[Ltyarbro42]

I wrote about my experience with the Panaracer Race As here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=141254

IRL, I don't like them very much and would recommend against any tubeless tire with a thicker inner butyl coating. Despite that, I love the gravelkings and Race Ds for what they are.

[TobinHatesYou]

Does anyone know the main differences between Hutchinson Fusion 5's 'Tubeless' and 'Tubeless Ready'? I know the TR version is lighter, but are there any other differences? I have the TR versions of the Galactik (233g) and the All Season (257g) but didn't realise there were these different versions when I bought them.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I have both the TLR and Tubeless versions of the latest 11Storm Galactik in 25mm. One of the TLR tires weighs 219g, the other weighs 220g. The Tubeless versions weigh 290g.

As you can imagine, the 70g difference is very noticeable in-hand. The tires not only feel heavier, but you can tell just about every part of the TLR version is thinner and more fragile other than the tread itself. Even the bead seems to be covered in less rubber. On the Tubeless version, the liner is smooth other than the ribs present on all Hutchinson tires. On the TLR version the liner has diagonal lines visible on the surface.

I would be hesitant to run the TLR version as anything other than a raceday tire. The sidewall just seems paper thin without the thicker butyl liner. It's lighter than Vittoria's Corsa Speed TLR tire...

[Sanjay]

Thanks for the information on the tyres. I'll try my luck with the Galactik Tlr ones now they are fitted. I won't be using them until about April but I might just stick to short rides to start with and see how they fare.

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[dim]

a bit off topic, but still related to this thread:

a new pump that could be very handy for tubeless (if you need to add a tube due to a slit/cut whilst on the road, and struggle to seat the tyre to the rim):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7IfY6Wu23w

https://www.cookecomponents.co.uk/product/ride-air/

second part of this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c37RvkDxgdc

it weighs 500 grams though and is quite bulky ... fits into a waterbottle cage, but that then means you only have 1 waterbottle instead of 2

[dim]

I had a puncture on the weekend on my rear IRC Pro RBCC tyre, and the Orange sealant would not seal the hole as the hole was just a tad too large ...

I ended up getting a taxi home (£25) as I took the wrong rucksack to work and never had my spare inner tube, sealant etc (I realized after 2km from home, but was late so just carried on)

what I done today though, was add a Park Tool Super Patch on the inside of the tyre to cover the hole (it was not a puncture on the sidewall), added 30ml of Orange sealant, and it's sorted .... took 10 minutes

I do however need to order the MaXalami tubeless repair tube kit (tyre worms) incase I get a puncture again that is too large to seal

[IrrelevantD]

I had a puncture on the weekend on my rear IRC Pro RBCC tyre, and the Orange sealant would not seal the hole as the hole was just a tad too large ...

I ended up getting a taxi home (£25) as I took the wrong rucksack to work and never had my spare inner tube, sealant etc (I realized after 2km from home, but was late so just carried on)

what I done today though, was add a Park Tool Super Patch on the inside of the tyre to cover the hole (it was not a puncture on the sidewall), added 30ml of Orange sealant, and it's sorted .... took 10 minutes

I do however need to order the MaXalami tubeless repair tube kit (tyre worms) incase I get a puncture again that is too large to seal

I haven't tried the park super patch, but I've had problems with normal patches staying sealed on the inside of the tire for some reason. What I ended up doing is getting a Genuine Innovations Plug Kit and a mini Swiss Army knife (for the scissors) and put them in my saddle bag. I've found that if I notice I have a leak and it doesn't stop within 10-15 seconds, I'll pull over, plug it, and forget about it until the tire has to be replaced. Swiss army knife is to trim down the ends of the plug strip where it sticks out of the tire.

Another thought, I've also found that Stan's Race Day sealant works better than anything else I've tried, which includes Orange Seal, Caffelatex, and two versions of Slime. The only thing that I found that works better is mixing Stan's original with glitter, but that's a horrible mess and I wouldn't recommend it.

[dim]

I had a puncture on the weekend on my rear IRC Pro RBCC tyre, and the Orange sealant would not seal the hole as the hole was just a tad too large ...

I ended up getting a taxi home (£25) as I took the wrong rucksack to work and never had my spare inner tube, sealant etc (I realized after 2km from home, but was late so just carried on)

what I done today though, was add a Park Tool Super Patch on the inside of the tyre to cover the hole (it was not a puncture on the sidewall), added 30ml of Orange sealant, and it's sorted .... took 10 minutes

I do however need to order the MaXalami tubeless repair tube kit (tyre worms) incase I get a puncture again that is too large to seal

I haven't tried the park super patch, but I've had problems with normal patches staying sealed on the inside of the tire for some reason. What I ended up doing is getting a Genuine Innovations Plug Kit and a mini Swiss Army knife (for the scissors) and put them in my saddle bag. I've found that if I notice I have a leak and it doesn't stop within 10-15 seconds, I'll pull over, plug it, and forget about it until the tire has to be replaced. Swiss army knife is to trim down the ends of the plug strip where it sticks out of the tire.

Another thought, I've also found that Stan's Race Day sealant works better than anything else I've tried, which includes Orange Seal, Caffelatex, and two versions of Slime. The only thing that I found that works better is mixing Stan's original with glitter, but that's a horrible mess and I wouldn't recommend it.

thanks for the tip ....

but I don't understand fully ...

Are you saying that the old Stans (mixed with glitter) is better than the newer Stan's Race Day seal (and which Stan's claim to be the best that they have ever made and which will seal larger holes)?

so does adding glitter improve the effectiveness of sealant?