Making the transition to tubulars
Moderator: robbosmans
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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sungod wrote:yep, that's the downside of latex tubes
in prep for long rides i tend to over-inflate a bit on the basis they'll lose some
I pump my Veloflex sprinter to 110 from and 130 rear... in my 67.5 miles ride, towards the end I can feel the ride is much comfy compared to beginning.. at least the glue job was good. Thanks to everyone's tip [emoji106]
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with brand new cf rims i use some 0000 grade steel wool to help remove any mould release compound from the rim bed - they can be quite tenacious - the steel wool can be wadded to match rim profile
this is a one-off with a new rim, it's not to roughen the rim bed
after that, clean paper towels to scrub with acetone or isopropyl alcohol (i prefer this as it doesn't flash off so fast) to remove dust, finger grease etc.
this is a one-off with a new rim, it's not to roughen the rim bed
after that, clean paper towels to scrub with acetone or isopropyl alcohol (i prefer this as it doesn't flash off so fast) to remove dust, finger grease etc.
it's not risk of a flat i would worry about, it's rim damage if you hit a hole/edge in the road on skinny tyres at low pressure
too low and the tyre deforms more which is less efficient, and it can feel a bit squishy/squirmy
i'm 77-80kg, 23mm carbons i usually ride around 6 bar, higher if i know the route has a good surface
too low and the tyre deforms more which is less efficient, and it can feel a bit squishy/squirmy
i'm 77-80kg, 23mm carbons i usually ride around 6 bar, higher if i know the route has a good surface
Hypothetical here.
Lets say you've got a tubulars stretching on a rim at the moment. Maybe tonight you'd want to try the rim out around the block. No glue or anything on it, just a fully inflated tubular on the rim. Seems tight.
Would a person survive such a thing
Really want to try this rim out this evening - sooo windy today. Just to see how it handles (58mm) and will be a week until they're all set up properly (rear wheel hasn't arrived yet.
Lets say you've got a tubulars stretching on a rim at the moment. Maybe tonight you'd want to try the rim out around the block. No glue or anything on it, just a fully inflated tubular on the rim. Seems tight.
Would a person survive such a thing
Really want to try this rim out this evening - sooo windy today. Just to see how it handles (58mm) and will be a week until they're all set up properly (rear wheel hasn't arrived yet.
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I have actually seen that tried...once. It was just messing-around in the infield at Nationals. Someone (who will go nameless), decided to 'test' whether you could ride an unglued tubular (front). You cannot. Don't do it.
@addictR1, at 150ish, you can very safely run 100/110ish in the dry, and 90/100ish in the wet. If you are running super-deep carbon wheels (I mean the rim bed sidewalls, not just the overall rim depth, like Hed Stingers, or something), then you should run the 25s on the rear, to avoid pinch-flats without sacrificing ride comfort and adding rolling resistance caused by running the rear so hard.
@addictR1, at 150ish, you can very safely run 100/110ish in the dry, and 90/100ish in the wet. If you are running super-deep carbon wheels (I mean the rim bed sidewalls, not just the overall rim depth, like Hed Stingers, or something), then you should run the 25s on the rear, to avoid pinch-flats without sacrificing ride comfort and adding rolling resistance caused by running the rear so hard.
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