4ibanez's Supersix Evo - 4.29kg (build list in 1st post)

[Jenmoss]

These have Fibre Lyte rings have arrived. 51/35 just because I want to try something different. Same difference in teeth as a 52/36, and matched number of teeth odd/odd , as Stephen suggested not to do odd/even. Here they are:


I had a fair bit of trouble setting them up. Couldn't get them to shift down when in the stand. The chain kept getting stuck on the 'step' behind the teeth (the teeth are machined from the back). I might take a file to it in order to remove the edge of the step. Bit weird, I've never had trouble setting up chainrings before.

As an almost last hope, I hopped on and managed to shift up then down ok underneath my body weight...weird, but a relief. But it started to rain before I really tested properly on the road, so not convinced I've got them fully figured out. I'll get in touch with Stephen if I can't get them working to a satisfactory level. Also something I've considered, should I remove a link from the chain if going down by 1t in the chainring? I'm using the same number as with the 52/36 at the moment

The good news if I stick with them, is that they get me sub 10lbs - 4,517g according to my spreadsheet on page 1. I suspect I'm a few grams below that as I haven't re-weighed the frame after some more fine sanding, or the shifters after I drilled out the paddle. Here's the proof (to the nearest 10g).


And finally, here it is with the new forks and bits on it (sorry, night time picture)

Don’t mess with the chainrings , talk to Stephen. He will advise you. The double chainrings are made to shift up and down . Before I was single ring I had double 53 /40 at the front . I knocked the down tube shifter that I used to have on my bike with my knee and it shifted perfect on to the small ring . I then shifted back onto the big ring with no issue . Maybe its a FD set up issue.

Bike looks f***ing awesome
You could go powercordz to save a bit more weight , shame your not in London I could tune a red mech for you, mine are in the 70grm area. Seatpost combo would save weight and bar stem should save a bit as well. I don’t use hoods I wrap mine in material adeshive tape . It weighs just a few grams.
Great job

[4ibanez]

Bike looks f***ing awesome
You could go powercordz to save a bit more weight , shame your not in London I could tune a red mech for you, mine are in the 70grm area. Seatpost combo would save weight and bar stem should save a bit as well. I don’t use hoods I wrap mine in material adeshive tape . It weighs just a few grams.
Great job

Thanks so much. I had to re-sand it, cos somehow I didn't realise there were still some patches of black paint here and there.

Yeh an RD tune was the next thing I was considering. I'll be on the lookout for a used one on ebay to tune. PS... 70g

[Klaster_1]

shame your not in London I could tune a red mech for you, mine are in the 70grm area.

That sounds quite interesting, do you have a thread or blog post with tuning process details/photos?

[4ibanez]

Ok so as I suspected the issue was that the chain was too long. What a dumbass! Bonus for me though - another 4g off the chain, so down to 211g for 106 links.

Despite having the chain much closer to optimal length, shifting's still a delicate procedure though. The chain ended up between the rings a couple of times on the downshift. Guess I need to see if it's different in proper riding conditions, then fine tune things if needed.

[RyanH]

I had similar issues with the Fibre-Lytes when I had them on my R5ca. I ended up having to do a majority of a road race in the big ring...a race that was close to 100 ft of elevation per mile. That wasn't fun. I think there's an issue with the 11s ones. When I was on 10s, I never had it drop in between the rings.

[4ibanez]

I had similar issues with the Fibre-Lytes when I had them on my R5ca. I ended up having to do a majority of a road race in the big ring...a race that was close to 100 ft of elevation per mile. That wasn't fun. I think there's an issue with the 11s ones. When I was on 10s, I never had it drop in between the rings.

Thanks for the response Ryan, glad it's not just me!

[Jenmoss]

shame your not in London I could tune a red mech for you, mine are in the 70grm area.

That sounds quite interesting, do you have a thread or blog post with tuning process details/photos?

If you use the search engine you will find plenty of tuned red mechs.
Most are tuned the same way.
Typical easy ones are carbon or afc jockey wheels with alloy bolts . Token hanger bolt. Carbon back cage ,nylon barrel adjuster , no bolts except the long one at the back I use a titanium one , nylon ones eventually bend as previously mentioned then hack away as much material as you can /dare.

[Klaster_1]

If you use the search engine you will find plenty of tuned red mechs.

Swapping bolts/pulleys/cage will get you so far, I already did that to my RD-9000. Knowing where to cut extra material off, now that's way more complicated. Still, 70g RD is in range of FastDads masterpiece and deserves detailed build thread of it's own in my opinion.

[Jenmoss]

If you use the search engine you will find plenty of tuned red mechs.

Swapping bolts/pulleys/cage will get you so far, I already did that to my RD-9000. Knowing where to cut extra material off, now that's way more complicated. Still, 70g RD is in range of FastDads masterpiece and deserves detailed build thread of it's own in my opinion.

It does not look much different than the normal tunings I just hacked away a bit more . It’s on my guru ,check the “ prendy I’m ok “ in this section . May have to scroll a few pages.

I just tuned another red for my trek that I’m rebuilding and I hacked away the same material yet it weighs nearly 20grms more

[Kayrehn]

Ok so as I suspected the issue was that the chain was too long. What a dumbass! Bonus for me though - another 4g off the chain, so down to 211g for 106 links.

Despite having the chain much closer to optimal length, shifting's still a delicate procedure though. The chain ended up between the rings a couple of times on the downshift. Guess I need to see if it's different in proper riding conditions, then fine tune things if needed.

Try to make sure the chain is on the higher end of the cassette before shifting down to the small ring. It'll be a good idea to dab some epoxy over the shift pins as well, they drop out pretty easy and Stephen had to send me some.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[4ibanez]

Try to make sure the chain is on the higher end of the cassette before shifting down to the small ring. It'll be a good idea to dab some epoxy over the shift pins as well, they drop out pretty easy and Stephen had to send me some.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Thanks for the tip. Did things work a fair bit better for you like that? Shouldn't be necessary IMO, but that is at least the most likely chain position when you shift down. I just tried to set them up inside rather than properly ride them cos of the time of year, so I've been shifting just in the middle of the cassette.

[4ibanez]

No major updates for a while, but a couple of recent changes I might as well share... I replaced the alu washers from my THM padholders with really thin black nylon washers saving 2.2g from the brakes (they're now 99g without pads). Was just a cheap and easy quick win.

I also picked up these beauties online for almost 1/2 price. Yes, they're ubiquitous on WW bikes, but now I can understand why. They seem stiff when bolted down and are premium quality in the looks department! Everything that needs to be said has been I think - little works of art!

[Kayrehn]

No major updates for a while, but a couple of recent changes I might as well share... I replaced the alu washers from my THM padholders with really thin black nylon washers saving 2.2g from the brakes (they're now 99g without pads). Was just a cheap and easy quick win.

I also picked up these beauties online for almost 1/2 price. Yes, they're ubiquitous on WW bikes, but now I can understand why. They seem stiff when bolted down and are premium quality in the looks department! Everything that needs to be said has been I think - little works of art!

I tried those nylon washers but they will get flattened when tightened down and become kinda useless... You may want to check on it eventually.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[4ibanez]

Technically a washer's not needed as the bolt's head is wider than the gap in the caliper. It just makes me feel a bit safer for some reason. At the very low torque I use, and looking how thin the washers already are, I don't think there'd be much squishing going on. Still, something to check on now and then

[dereksmalls]

Are you still using the THM BB or did you swap it for something else? It seams quite heavy for something that doesn’t need to be? How would the crank perform if you used a different BB?