Re: MTB Tubular
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the factory of FRM rims is DRC http://www.drc.it/drc/e_home/home.shtml
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xcfisher wrote:My experience is that the Dugast Rhino's are the best rolling tire and provides the best feel. The fastest (and lightest) by far is the Tufo XC2.
I don't understand this comment, the Dugast is the best rolling, but the Tufo is the fastest?
Can someone that have ridden both the Tufo XC2 and Dugast Rhino XL compare the two tires?
I am looking for a fast rolling tire.
I am looking for a fast rolling tire.
timbat wrote:Ambrosio also makes a wheelset, FRM make 309g tubular rims, and Gipiemme have 2 wheelsets:
Kenya 400g alloy rim approx 1400g total and
Sierra 1300g
kenya wheelset weights 1435gr, I have a set of this wheels.
The real name of FRM rim is "Drc tubolite"
The Tufo XC2 is kind of a 'dual-purpose' tire. In reality, it is for hard pack courses. The other tire, the XC 1 (which I have not ridden), is definitely hard pack only (with a centre rib design). I liken the tire's performance to the Schwalbe Racing Ralph.
I can't speak for the Dugast Rino for MTB use, but if it is like the Dugast Rino 'cross tire (which I do know), then it is really a mud tire.
I can't speak for the Dugast Rino for MTB use, but if it is like the Dugast Rino 'cross tire (which I do know), then it is really a mud tire.
crock wrote:kenya wheelset weights 1435gr, I have a set of this wheels.
The real name of FRM rim is "Drc tubolite"
Hi Crock,
What tyres do you use with your Kenya ?
How does the DRC Tubolite compare to the DRC XR-300 ? I can't download a DRC catalog ....
Grazie,
timbat
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I am impressed with some of the feedback that you guys are giving on the tubulars. They originally hit me as very course dependent and I didn't see why companies were comming up with anything that was not for very fast, smooth courses.
The ability to ride on a punctured tire is the big concern of mine and why I have always seen them as course specific. Many of the courses that I race on are 15km loops. When you can get inside the tire (whether tubeless or tube type), you can make a fix when you are 6km from the start/finish line even if you have to boot it. With the tubular, you are stuck riding that flat tire for an extended period on what are bound to be pretty nice wheels.
I race tubulars on the road and for cross so I really like the ride and am totally confident so far as their ability to shine on the mtb scene. Still, the uncontrolable x-factors in XC racing are much greater than they are in the controlled environments of road or CX.
The ability to ride on a punctured tire is the big concern of mine and why I have always seen them as course specific. Many of the courses that I race on are 15km loops. When you can get inside the tire (whether tubeless or tube type), you can make a fix when you are 6km from the start/finish line even if you have to boot it. With the tubular, you are stuck riding that flat tire for an extended period on what are bound to be pretty nice wheels.
I race tubulars on the road and for cross so I really like the ride and am totally confident so far as their ability to shine on the mtb scene. Still, the uncontrolable x-factors in XC racing are much greater than they are in the controlled environments of road or CX.
I am in agreement that the tubular is best for specific courses. If you had a really gnarly rock garden or somthing, maybe they would not be the best choice. They are suited to hard pack or courses with soft, sandy or muddy sections where the lower pressures result in superior traction. One of the advantages of the tubular tire is that you can ride them with little or no air in them.
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I can see the advantage of running lower pressure, you can use a low profile thread causing less rolling resistance. But on the other way, how many times do you really want to run extreme little pressure ? Grip is one factor, but when riding lower pressure the tire can bent around the rim (in case of tubulars, the tire doesn't loose air) which is extremely uncontrollable imo. After all, lower pressure means higher rolling resistance!
Another concern is the rather small size of tubulars (dugast at least, dunno about other brands), smaller size means less grip, less comfort, higher rolling resistance (on mtb-speeds).
I was also considering buying a set of tubulars but I figured out it can't offer me any advantage mainly due to the fact that I'm riding dual suspension (merida 96) for xco and xcm. I always used to ride around 1.5bar with my hardtail (i'm 60kgs, 130lbs), now I'm always on the 2.0bar range. Due to wide tires (raceking 2.2 protection, sealed) and the suspension I have loads of grip and comfort while the tires are fast rolling due to higher pressure.
Maybe a tubular might be an advantage on hardtails though, but I'm in doubt..
Another concern is the rather small size of tubulars (dugast at least, dunno about other brands), smaller size means less grip, less comfort, higher rolling resistance (on mtb-speeds).
I was also considering buying a set of tubulars but I figured out it can't offer me any advantage mainly due to the fact that I'm riding dual suspension (merida 96) for xco and xcm. I always used to ride around 1.5bar with my hardtail (i'm 60kgs, 130lbs), now I'm always on the 2.0bar range. Due to wide tires (raceking 2.2 protection, sealed) and the suspension I have loads of grip and comfort while the tires are fast rolling due to higher pressure.
Maybe a tubular might be an advantage on hardtails though, but I'm in doubt..
"It's always your legs that count, but WW bikes make strong legs last longer!"
16psi? I'm 58kg, and the lowest I've ran is 20psi, even with that I was smacking the rim on the ground every once in a while.... with both Tufo and Dugast tires. I'd say There is no reason to go below 22psi.. unless your looking to damage your rim! The volume of these tires is not high enough.
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